Sushi Otaku

Archive for the ‘Restaurant Information’ Category

I have recently set up a wiki that I have entitled the “Sushi-ya-pedia” that I would like to turn into a community powered sushi bar finder and restaurant review resource. In my opinion, there is no better reviewer than diners ourselves, so I’m working hard to get every restaurant in the US (and eventually the world) into the database, but I encourage anyone who may be interested in participating to head on over and check it out. Feel free to create an account and make your voice heard. If you don’t know how to create a wiki page, you are always welcome to email me and I would be happy to update your favorite restaurant with your description and review. For starters, you please visit:

http://www.sushifaq.com/sushiyapedia/
http://www.sushifaq.com/sushiyapedia/index.php/Formatting
http://www.sushifaq.com/sushiyapedia/index.php/Help:Contents

Please join and help make the Sushi-Ya-Pedia the most useful place for sushi lovers on the ‘net to find their food!

Meshi agare!
Warren

Every once in a while I read something about the restaurant business that makes me so incredibly happy that I am a regular at a few sushi places and trust them implicitly. I walk in, they know I am a regular and I am treated as such. There is a reason that I am a regular too, I trust their practices and I love their food. And most especially, they are nothing like Sushi World.

I don’t think it takes a brain surgeon to realize that making sushi in a place used for pigeons and cats is not a good idea. Especially when your customers are starting to suffer from food poisoning. I can only wonder why it took the Australian authorities so long to shut them down. Places like this are certainly not limited to Australia, and I have heard my share of horror stories about places in North America, but I’ve always associated Australia with fresh seafood (perhaps a stereotype, but at least a good one). I’ll have to get myself over there to test the waters, so to speak. And maintain my status as a ‘regular’ at my local places, so when I’m in the kitchen talking to the chefs, I can be sure that there are no critters present, be they furry or flying.

This article has been moved to the How to Eat Sushi page on The Sushi FAQ. Please follow the aforementioned link to an expanded version of this article.

I pretty much always go to a pure sushi-ya when I’m going out to eat sushi. If sushi is their core competency, then I know I’m probably in for a good meal. There are, however, Japanese steakhouses (the places with all the fancy foodwork at the table) that also have a sushi bar somewhere on premises. And I can’t say that I’m a big fan of the concept.

The one benefit of a sushi bar in a steakhouse is that, often enough, its not particularly busy and you may get an attentive itamae (chef). And sometimes the food is good. There was one in particular near where I lived a few years ago that was actually quite good. It wasn’t my number one choice, but I always knew I could get in and sit at the bar if my usual places were too full. The itamae was nice and the sushi was good. But I think I was lucky. I don’t mean to disparage the sushi bars at steakhouses, but in my overall experience, they have been sub par. Again, it’s not something they focus on and they may not do the volume of business necessary to keep their items in peak condition. They may not have a particularly diverse selection of items. No specials, no seasonal items. They also may not be able to hire a top itamae.

For high quality sushi I look for a restaurant that specializes in sushi. I don’t want my experience to feel tacked on to another one. That said, you might get lucky at a steakhouse (I have), but you also may not (and I have not). Sushi is something special, even if you eat it frequently, and deserves to be treated as an art, not just a meal. It is best appreciated, instead of being “also available,” lowering itself to merely a fad. I want my sushi to be more than adequate. I’m not convinced that the steakhouse sushi can be that. But if I’m not looking for sushi, I’ll definitely go to one for dinner and a show.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

I feel somewhat oddly as I get more personal in this blog, however I guess that’s the point of a blog sometimes, eh? But one issue I thought I’d touch on is sushi and dating. I’ve been eating sushi for a long time. When I started to get interested in “The Real Date” (as opposed to the high school whatever happens, happens kind of date) it was obvious to me that a Japanese restaurant would be a place I would choose. I’m that kind of guy.

These days, it’s easier to go out to a sushi-ya on a date, however 15 years ago, they weren’t so numerous and sushi wasn’t as popular. Back then, I would make sure to go to a restaurant that had other options, such as teriyaki and other cooked, western friendly items. Sometimes it wasn’t hard to get my date to try the squid (ika) or the uni (sea urchin), but more often it was a no-go and I never pressed the issue. It was often great for conversation, though, as I munched away on my bowl of shrimp heads or monkfish liver (mmmmm, ankimo).

As time passed, I got older and palates became more sophisticated. More people knew of and ate sushi and it was not as uncommon to drag someone to a basement sushi-ya that you couldnâ’t even see from the street and have the best sushi you’ve had in a while (and I love New York City for that). I was always good with etiquette questions and identifying the unusual items, and the conversation changed from the “what the heck are you eating” kind of chat to “hey, that looks interesting, what is it?” type of conversation. Dates weren’t about impressing someone any more (well, not as much) and evolved into appreciating the food we ordered, and each other.

One technique, however, that was sure to impress (or so I thought) was to pop what was left of the wad of wasabi (I always order the real stuff when available) into my mouth at the end of the meal and chew away. With bright red face I would check the gag reflex and pretend that all was well. Did the chicks dig it? Well, they sure thought I was crazy, and in your twenties that’s not a bad thing (as long as you not a total wing nut). My wife makes fun of me to this day for showing off in that way with her. The combination of date and sushi became easier and more interesting as sushi caught on, while my adventurousness no longer had the impact it once had. But, it wasn’t a bad thing. The date should be about the date and not wondering why some guy is popping shrimp eyes between his incisors.

I no longer date, for obvious reasons, and my wife is a great sushi partner. We do still go out on “dates” to our favorite sushi-ya when we can get someone to watch the kids. It no longer impresses her when I eat my wasabi (it became a habit from overuse), but I can still whip out an offhand sushi fact that she hasn’t heard yet, which is nice. The food is good and the conversation better. I just wish the itamae would stop skimping on the wasabi.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

I’ve been disappointed many times at various restaurants, but I really think it’s the worst to be disappointed when going out for sushi. One always expects something good and perhaps different when going out, but sushi is such a unique experience that when you get bad sushi, it hurts (Please! Not in the face!). If your lamb isn’t cooked right, or your potatoes are just plain weird, it’s one thing, but if your hamachi is funky, it will make you want to push your plate away and perhaps even divest yourself of your latest meal.

I mention this because, years ago, there was a little sushi place not far from where I lived that used to be my stand-by. I went weekly if not more frequently, even for just a nibble sometimes. But over time, something happened. It started to go downhill. There wasn’t a management change and the same itamae prepared food behind the counter. Perhaps he was getting senile, but one day I got bad hamachi. Really bad… It made me ill. I’m not a complainer so I didn’t, but it took me a while to go back. Over time, I had other bad experiences there with items just ‘not right’ and eventually I simply stopped going. Perhaps I should have said something at some point, but I never did. About a year or so later, it was closed, and I don’t think I need to guess why.

I love sushi, and I don’t ask for perfection in technique, but when a food prides itself on its freshness and preparation, there is a level of quality that I cannot overlook. When I go out for sushi, I need it to be good. If it’s not, I may as well have gone for fast food. And I don’t mean fish ‘n chips.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

How do you decide where to go? A colleague of mind has invited me to a dinner at one of two different sushi-yas in NYC and I’m in a quandary. They are both top rated, traditional restaurants and I’ve heard great things about both. The problem is that I have no frame of reference.

That may sound odd, but when it comes to sushi, it’s very particular and the differences are established by presentation, freshness, and creativity. These are not things that can be judged without having been there. It’s easy to arrive at a restaurant and say ‘Oh My God, I’m leaving’ (as I did when I saw a rat walk casually up to me in an Indian restaurant about 10 years ago). But when it looks good and sounds good, It’s impossible to tell the difference between two dedicated sushi joints without having the experience oneself.

When it comes to sushi, especially, what is ‘good’ is really determined by ones preferences. Some folks like uni and can judge excellent quality in a piece. To others, it’s a slimy goo (which is practically blasphemy, IMHO). The point is, I hear they are good restaurants, but will they satisfy this sushi otaku?

I think there’s only one way to find out. I’ll flip a coin, head on over and ask for the ‘omakase.’ There is no better way to test an itamae’s abilities and see what a restaurant can offer. Then, I’ll have to mosey on over to the other one (perhaps I’ll invite him) and do the same. then compare.

There is no other type of food that is so personal an experience than sushi. I love items that my wife won’t touch. Everyone has their favorites, and with the variety of flavors and textures that sushi offers, it’s not hard to find something you like. But finding something that you will mortgage your soul for (I can’t sell it outright) is truly a unique experience, and for some people, this is it. For others, it’s just a dinner. But the experience that a particular sushi restaurant offers is what makes this type of dining so very personal.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

I like sitting at the sushi bar at a restaurant. Tables are fine, but when I really want to get into things I sit at the bar. Omakase (chef’s choice) is much better when he is right in front of you, and even if you have your preferences, it’s always nice to watch it being made right in front of you and eating your hamachi moments after being cut. It’s also a great way to befriend the itamae.

When I started more regularly to sushi restaurants, there was one in particular that I would go to with my extended family. We went somewhat regularly, and were fortunate to always be seated at the bar. We got to know the itamae, Sato-san, well enough that he would always seem to find something different or unusual for my cousin and me (two kids who would eat pretty much anything) and was a really friendly guy. He took notice of us because we took notice of him. We were full of questions, and he was full of tricks. Not those silly Benihana kind of tricks, but to a 16 year old who is one of the only non-Japanese in a restaurant, origami critters and strange fish parts served in a creative manner are always interesting.

I’m older now and not so fascinated by origami, however when I get the chance, I always sit at the sushi bar, especially when I know I’ll be back. The itamae will get to know you, will sometimes suggest other items if he thinks what you ordered might not be the best that day, and is often a really interesting person. He knows the food he handles and can be your guide as well as your chef. If you show an interest in his skills he will usually steer you right. Buy him a beer (as I mentioned before). Talk to him. Ask about the special or unusual items (often reserved for the Japanese clientèle who are more familiar with them). But most of all, enjoy your stay at the bar because you might discover things you would otherwise have overlooked.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

I’ll eat sushi any way and chance I get. I end up eating a lot of take out simply because it’s easy and with two young children, it’s not always fun when the edamame starts getting tossed around. But I really like the experience of being in the restaurant, drinking my sake, listening to the hum of the other diners. It’s fun watching what other people eat and watching the expressions of the people next to you when you get the raw quail egg and slurp it down with gusto. Or start munching on the shrimp heads. These are not common occurrences in North America.

My favorite restaurant does a pretty brisk take-out business, I’ve asked them, and I get everything from my regulars to bowls of their salad dressing to keep me ‘fixed’ for a week. And while their sushi is always great, whether eaten here or there, there’s just something about the temperature of the food that seems really important to me. Sushi is not served room temperature. It’s usually slightly chilled (or warm if cooked like Unagi maki). And this makes a huge difference. By the time I get my take-out home, my food is room temperature and the avocado has often lost some of it’s texture and color. It’s just not the same. Even the same brand of sake just doesn’t taste the same at home. It sounds dumb, but it’s true.

While I always prefer take-out to no sushi at all, there’s something to be said for getting off my bum and heading over to the restaurant and hunkering down. The food is great, the dishes are cleaned for you and the tea is, well…. restaurant bancha is never great, but it’s all part of the experience. So when I can… I’ll be sticking around.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

As if the serving of endangered Bluefin Tuna were not enough, a Santa Monica, California restaurant called “The Hump” is alleged to have been serving whale as part of its omakase menu, according to the New York Times. They indicate activists surreptitiously filmed themselves being served what was tested to be Sei Whale, an endangered whale still fished in Japan and sold as “Kujira.” Serving marine mammals is illegal in the US, however the Japanese still fish and serve whale under the auspices of “scientific research.” In the US, however, this is a big no-no. There is no word as to what will happen if this is indeed true, however the law suggests up to a year in jail and a $20,000 fine for selling the flesh of marine mammals. Oops?

Whale offered at the Tsukiji fish market in Japan

Warren
Sushi Otaku