Sushi Otaku

Posts Tagged ‘bluefin’

And we have a new winner! As is usual, on the first auction for the new year at the Tsukiji fish market, a new record was set for the most expensive tuna sold. Selling for $736,000 (56.49 million Yen), the 593 pound (269 kilogram) bluefin tuna came out around $1,238 per pound. That price likely does not reflect real market prices, which are still quite high, but more the celebratory feeling that permeates the Tsukiji fish market on the first auction day of the year.

Every year, a new record seems to be set for the bluefin tuna, which should come as no surprise as these fish are becoming more and more scarce every year. While the fish has already been prepared and sold as nigiri sushi and sashimi for under cost (no doubt as 1 piece would normally have have retailed for $96 per, if you do the math on the size of the fish), there will be more to come. But doubtfully not at the same incredible price.

Atlantic and Pacific Bluefin tuna are primarily eaten in japan (which purchases about 80% of the global catch of these species). They face growing calls to reduce their catches due to the incredible decline in the number of bluefin tuna in the oceans over the past 25 years. Probably every year for a few more I will be able to make a post like this, but there will come a time, when the fish are commercially extinct, when I won’t. And that will be a sad day.

Идея за подаръкHow will you feel when there is no more bluefin tuna sushi? No maguro. No toro. While I tend to rant a bit when it comes to the issue of over harvesting bluefin tuna, I will try to take a step off my pedestal for this entry, but I would really like to hear what others have to say if the situation gets to the point where there is no more bluefin tuna commercially viable. It is a very real possibility in the not too distant future.

Many restaurants serve big eye tuna, yellowfin, or other species rather than bluefin tuna, even when a person may think they are ordering bluefin. While they don’t imply they are serving bluefin and to purposefully bait and switch, nevertheless, very often you are not being served bluefin when you order a tuna roll. This makes me wonder. If no one is particularly conscious of what they are eating, and they see plenty of “tuna,” it may not be on people’s minds that real maguro and toro may disappear. As long as you still receive what you are expecting based on historical precedence, nothing needs to change.

So perhaps it will make no difference when the bluefin tuna disappears from the oceans. Diners will keep ordering tuna, without knowing what species they are eating. No one will be the wiser. I don’t mean this in any pejorative way, either, while the loss of a species is a tragedy, for all intents and purposes, it may not affect the sushi world in any real way.

How do other sushi diners feel about this? I certainly eat tuna, and when I can, avoid bluefin. But There are still plenty of fish in the sea (and the aqua farms), so to speak. Is the loss of bluefin a concern for you? Will you miss real toro? Would you back a forced sustainability program to keep the real fish on the plate? Do tell.

Bluefin Tuna

And we have a winner! Today, January 5th, 2011, a 754 pound bluefin tuna was sold in the Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan for a whopping $396,000 (or about $526/lb). What makes this even more interesting is that the last record sale price was recorded on the exact same date in 2001, 10 years ago to the day. What a coincidence! (well, sort of, as this is the first auction of the year, but it’s still interesting).

While this is news in and of itself, this could be the final record for a long time as the November 2010 meeting where the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) decreased the 2011 quota by only 4%. With these fish over harvested for years, it is just a matter of time before they are commercially extinct.

This week in Paris is the showdown where ICCAT (The International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas) will set bluefin tuna quotas for 2011. From November 17 – 27, meetings will take place between member nations to discuss the severe decline in bluefin tuna stocks and where the fishing quota shout be set, hopefully in order to balance demand for these creatures, which are served as sushi (maguro & toro), and the need to reduce quotas to save the species from extinction.

Conservation groups, such as WWF, are demanding severe cuts to the current quota of 13,500 metric tons caught internationally, saying that the species is on the brink of extinction and will not survive much more harvesting at these quotas, particularly as poaching increases that number significantly each year and there is some admission from member nations that they do not adhere to the quotas. The other side of the coin is the fishing nations’ complaint that reducing the quotas will end jobs and reduce the economic opportunity for the fishermen who rely on the sea. Of course, what they don’t address is what will happen to those fishermen when the tuna are commercially depleted. While the EU Fisheries Commissioner Maria Damanaki had proposed a 2011 quota of 6,000 metric tons for 2011 (which would be consistent with sustainability goals proposed for 2022), she immediately backtracked after a boisterous response from some member nations, and has instead called for a “substantial reduction” rather than a hard limit.

After the failed European Union attempt o have the species listed as endangered in March, many see this meeting as a last ditch effort to save the species. The species has declined an estimated 85% over the past four decades due to their value as a food fish, and unless more manageable practices are implemented, there is certainly reason to believe that stocks will continue to decline further.

Unfortunately the only groups that seem to be looking for year over year cuts to quotas are those that do not profit from the catch, which may indicate where the decision may lean. One can only hope that sensible minds preside and do their best to balance the need for short-term commerce with the need to preserve the species for future fishermen and sushi lovers.

Bluefin Tuna

The largest Japanese tuna seen since 1986 was auctioned Friday at the Tsukiji Fish market after being caught in Japanese Waters. The Bluefin tuna, weighing 445 kilograms (981 pounds), sold for 3.2 million Yen (36,700 USD). The average size of a Bluefin tuna is about 250 kilograms (550 pounds) to put that into perspective. Bluefin tuna this massive are rarely seen, particularly these days as overfishing has reduced their population to a small fraction of what it once was.

The largest tuna from Japan ever sold at the Tsukiji Market was 496 kilogram monster in 1986, however the largest on record was a 497 Canadian tuna sold there in 1995. While this recent catch indicates that fish this large still exist, the likelihood of any more this size being caught is relatively low as without rational limits placed on tuna fishing, commercial harvest of Bluefin tuna will end fairly soon. The sushi scene will be changed forever.

With Bluefin tuna stocks at what seem to be a critical point, Japan, with the help of Canada and a few other countries, has decided to reject a ban on Atlantic Bluefin Tuna fishing, which means that maguro may become a thing of the past. As stocks are down about 80% since the 1970s, and not allowing the stock to replenish could very well be the death knell for the Atlantic Bluefin Tuna.

Japan (and other countries) had been demanding that they would only recognize the sanctions of the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) when it came to regulating international fisheries, rather than the United Nations. This meant that the impetus to ban trade in Atlantic Bluefin Tuna, organized by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), was rejected. While ICCAT has been the body which has set fishing quotas for the fish, it has for years set quotas well above what it’s scientists say are sustainable levels. It has therefore been viewed in many circles as largely ineffective at regulating stocks.

A press release from CITES offered a brief summary of what happened:
“Japan, Canada and several members States of the Arab league opposed the proposal arguing that regional fisheries management organizations (RFMOs) as ICCAT [the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas] were best placed to tackle the decline of bluefin tuna stocks. They added that an Appendix I listing [which would ban trade in the species] would not stop the fishing of the species. After a passionate but relatively short debate, the representative of Libya requested to close the deliberations and go for a vote. Iceland called for a secret ballot. The amendment introduced by the European Union and Monaco’s proposal were defeated (20 votes in favor, 68 against, 30 abstentions) in the middle of much confusion about the voting procedures and mixed feelings of satisfaction and frustration from participants.”

Apparently there was not much debate before a vote was called, which ensured a quick resolution based on preconceived decisions.

While the hiatus from Atlantic Bluefin Tuna fishing still remains in effect, after this vote, fishing will resume again in May. We will have to wait and see what happens to Atlantic Bluefin Tuna stocks as fishing continues at these levels. There may be a day soon when maguro disappears from the menu. Only when this happens, it will be too late to save these fish.

Meshi Agare,
Warren
Sushi Otaku

As if the serving of endangered Bluefin Tuna were not enough, a Santa Monica, California restaurant called “The Hump” is alleged to have been serving whale as part of its omakase menu, according to the New York Times. They indicate activists surreptitiously filmed themselves being served what was tested to be Sei Whale, an endangered whale still fished in Japan and sold as “Kujira.” Serving marine mammals is illegal in the US, however the Japanese still fish and serve whale under the auspices of “scientific research.” In the US, however, this is a big no-no. There is no word as to what will happen if this is indeed true, however the law suggests up to a year in jail and a $20,000 fine for selling the flesh of marine mammals. Oops?

Whale offered at the Tsukiji fish market in Japan

Warren
Sushi Otaku

Sustainable sushi is a new movement driven by the need to balance our food supply with our insatiable demand for sushi. Due to the overfishing of some species, guides are now available to help consumers choose food items that will have less environmental impact. The sustainable sushi guides help consumers determine what fish are becoming endangered by overfishing and often list the fish by both the English name and the Japanese name. The pocket guides want people to ask if the sushi they are getting was caught or farmed, allowing them to make responsible decisions when dining.

The Environmental Defense Fund’s guide is slightly more focused on the health of the consumer as well as the health of the oceans. The Defense Fund also, for example, lists Bluefin Tuna as a no-no because overfishing has caused the population of the fish to drop 90% in 30 years. Other “pass on this” selections are; farmed arctic char, red snapper, freshwater eel and monkfish.

The idea is to get more sushi chefs and restaurants to become ocean friendly. Americans love sushi and normally do not think to ask about the types of fish being served or whether they are thriving or dwindling in the ocean waters. Four conservations groups have guides coming out but the Environmental Defense Fund is said to be more informational than the others because it also lists the health benefits of each fish. The ideal is for sushi restaurants to serve more locally produced fish and also to back off from those nearing endangerment. Most seafood restaurants are already on the same page but many feel the sushi industry is dragging their heels which is what prompted the guides.

Besides the guides there are now online pages (including the SushiFAQ Sustainable Sushi Guide) that help consumers to know which fish to steer away from and which are good to go. With more and more focus on the environment it was only a matter of time before this movement took off. Sustainable sushi is all about becoming more environmentally aware and ocean friendly.

The only problem with the guides is that the ecosystem and the conditions in the ocean are constantly changing. What is said to be a safe fish today may not be safe at all tomorrow. The guides promoters have set up websites to keep the public informed of any updates that come along and if any new fish wind up on the “do not eat” list. Currently, farmed salmon is an “eat all you want” fish and has the green light from all concerned. Bluefin Tuna seems to be in real trouble and people are being greatly encouraged not to eat it and to ask if the tuna at a sushi restaurant is actually Bluefin tuna.

There has been a boon in popularity for sushi and fish in general since it became known that fish contains Omega 3 fatty acids. Since then more people have begun eating fish and the oceans are now being converged on by more fishing boats. Our oceans are over fished and the population of many of the species is dwindling. So now that we have found a healthy food that we like (in general) we are told not to eat some of it.

While restaurants in general and seafood restaurants have been fairly quick to take up the hint and start serving ocean friendly fish, it seems to be the sushi restaurants that are doing the most balking. Probably due to the increase in popularity in fish since the health benefits of fish have been realized. It seems that even being environmentally aware, they would still do a great business. So they shouldn’t serve Bluefin tuna, how about Yellowfin? There are just too many other options to hold out on a list of fish that will be out of existence all together if they are not left to reproduce.

It has taken the world long enough to become environmentally aware and it stands to reason that if the consumer becomes aware, they are going to demand that the services they obtain and the products they consume are made by businesses that are also environmentally aware.

Future generations depend on the choices we make today. If we aren’t careful there may not be sushi as we know it for our children and their children. Unless we conserve the resources we have now, we will all suffer. If the Bluefin tuna and other species of fish were given time to recoup from their losses recovery is not out of the question. It is time that restaurants are made to understand the criticality of this issue. Educating yourself is the first step in helping address this situation.  We need to halt the over fishing of many species of fish and animals. There are many alternate choices the sushi industry can make as there are other types of fish that are just as good. We can all agree that sushi is delicious and worth saving. Let’s do what we can to make sure it can be enjoyed by future generations as well. Read our guide to sustainable sushi or find one of the many available find out what you should and should not order next time you go out for fish or sushi. It all begins with you.

Warren
Sushi Otaku