Sushi Otaku

Archive for the ‘Tuna (Maguro)’ Category

And we have a new winner! As is usual, on the first auction for the new year at the Tsukiji fish market, a new record was set for the most expensive tuna sold. Selling for $736,000 (56.49 million Yen), the 593 pound (269 kilogram) bluefin tuna came out around $1,238 per pound. That price likely does not reflect real market prices, which are still quite high, but more the celebratory feeling that permeates the Tsukiji fish market on the first auction day of the year.

Every year, a new record seems to be set for the bluefin tuna, which should come as no surprise as these fish are becoming more and more scarce every year. While the fish has already been prepared and sold as nigiri sushi and sashimi for under cost (no doubt as 1 piece would normally have have retailed for $96 per, if you do the math on the size of the fish), there will be more to come. But doubtfully not at the same incredible price.

Atlantic and Pacific Bluefin tuna are primarily eaten in japan (which purchases about 80% of the global catch of these species). They face growing calls to reduce their catches due to the incredible decline in the number of bluefin tuna in the oceans over the past 25 years. Probably every year for a few more I will be able to make a post like this, but there will come a time, when the fish are commercially extinct, when I won’t. And that will be a sad day.

Идея за подаръкHow will you feel when there is no more bluefin tuna sushi? No maguro. No toro. While I tend to rant a bit when it comes to the issue of over harvesting bluefin tuna, I will try to take a step off my pedestal for this entry, but I would really like to hear what others have to say if the situation gets to the point where there is no more bluefin tuna commercially viable. It is a very real possibility in the not too distant future.

Many restaurants serve big eye tuna, yellowfin, or other species rather than bluefin tuna, even when a person may think they are ordering bluefin. While they don’t imply they are serving bluefin and to purposefully bait and switch, nevertheless, very often you are not being served bluefin when you order a tuna roll. This makes me wonder. If no one is particularly conscious of what they are eating, and they see plenty of “tuna,” it may not be on people’s minds that real maguro and toro may disappear. As long as you still receive what you are expecting based on historical precedence, nothing needs to change.

So perhaps it will make no difference when the bluefin tuna disappears from the oceans. Diners will keep ordering tuna, without knowing what species they are eating. No one will be the wiser. I don’t mean this in any pejorative way, either, while the loss of a species is a tragedy, for all intents and purposes, it may not affect the sushi world in any real way.

How do other sushi diners feel about this? I certainly eat tuna, and when I can, avoid bluefin. But There are still plenty of fish in the sea (and the aqua farms), so to speak. Is the loss of bluefin a concern for you? Will you miss real toro? Would you back a forced sustainability program to keep the real fish on the plate? Do tell.

Ah, the humble California roll. While I often refer to this as the “Big Mac” of rolls, it is actually quite tasty, given its lack of any real historical precedents. California rolls are far from traditional sushi, but they aren’t as far from the norm as you might expect. All it took was a little innovation and something was created that now dominates the sushi world.

The style of sushi we know and love originates in Japan, and the Japanese are known for their adoption and innovation of western ideas. As sushi moved westward into the U.S., it became more and more popular. California was a natural inception point for many things Japanese, and sushi was a big hit on the west coast from the start. Back in the 1960′s, though, food transportation was not as efficient as it is now, so acquiring certain types of fish was not always easy. Supply didn’t often meet demand, and in a particular sushi bar called Tokyo Kaikan in Los Angeles, a sushi chef named Ichiro Mashita found himself lacking in toro, the fatty tuna belly, which was much in demand. So he began substituting avocado for the toro, and having a creamy, fatty consistency, this worked out well. After a little more experimentation, Ichiro devised the roll that we today call the California Roll.

From a simple substitution came a roll that that is one of the most popular today. While it is very American in terms of it’s constituents (avocado was never used in Japan in sushi until it became popular in the U.S.), one might argue that this is a great example of the Japanese concept of urawaza (translated as secret trick), where a person experiments to find a simple solution to a common or simple problem. No toro? Try something similar… And it eventually transformed into something new and interesting. While It is not a perfect analogy, it is a perfect example of gastronomic creativity. While it is not something always on my plate, I certainly enjoy ordering a California roll on occasion, and it is a reminder of how food can evolve as local adaptations are accepted.

If you love California rolls but are unsure of how healthy they are, check out the California roll calories and nutrition information entry in our sushi calories and nutrition information page. Or make one at home, with the California roll entry on our recipes page!

Bluefin Tuna

And we have a winner! Today, January 5th, 2011, a 754 pound bluefin tuna was sold in the Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan for a whopping $396,000 (or about $526/lb). What makes this even more interesting is that the last record sale price was recorded on the exact same date in 2001, 10 years ago to the day. What a coincidence! (well, sort of, as this is the first auction of the year, but it’s still interesting).

While this is news in and of itself, this could be the final record for a long time as the November 2010 meeting where the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) decreased the 2011 quota by only 4%. With these fish over harvested for years, it is just a matter of time before they are commercially extinct.

As I do on occasion, last weekend I decided to make sushi at home. We had some friends over, supplied the fish and the sake, and for a few hours, we were our own itamae (sushi chef).  My order from Catalina Offshore Products arrived on Friday, and I immediately prepared the food and stored it properly for the festivities. I make sushi at home with uncertain frequency, but I have made available a section of SushiFAQ about how to make sushi at home that I recommend anyone read if they too are interested in doing the same. It is fun, relatively easy, and an experience you won’t soon forget. It is a hands on meal, and as such, I feel it creates a pleasant, informal atmosphere the brings out the best in people, as they share their creations, make a mess with their first few rolls, and share high quality food that they love.

The food arrived the next day, and I was eager to start preparing.

Sushi grade fish awaiting processing

As there were 6 of us eating (5 adults and one 8 year old who has developed a love of sushi) there was a great deal of food to prepare. One of the favorites of the evening was the tuna. A 2 pound block had to be cut properly so that we could make both nigiri sushi, cut rolls (maki), and hand rolls (temaki). Of course we also ended up eating a lot as sashimi as well. The bits and pieces that were not shaped into the block were used in rolls to great effect.

Preparing tuna for sushi

While I tend to avoid farmed salmon, I was assured by the folks at Catalina that this particular fish from New Zealand was not the usual junk that I feel most farmed salmon is. And they were right. The fillet was beautiful, it did not look artificially colored, the texture was great, and had all the rich buttery-ness that I come to expect from high grade salmon. They have changed my mind about what farmed salmon can be.

The scallops were huge. Practically the size of my fist (or so it seemed) I had to cut them in half before slicing them yet again so they would fit on the rice as nigiri sushi. They were fresh, dry scallops (not treated with sodium tripolyphosphate to preserve and bulk them up), and I couldn’t help popping a few in my mouth intact while preparing them, something I rarely get to do. Creamy and sweet, they are probably one of my favorite items from the sea.

Scallops ready for sushi

Then, the rarely ordered abalone. These guys are shipped live, like oysters, and are not something many people have the chance to experience. They are not inexpensive, nor are they easy to prepare, but they are worth every minute of effort. I cleaned them, and sliced them thinly to be eaten, preferably, as sashimi. While still a bit crunchy, they are subtly redolent of the sea and a rare treat for me at home.

Live abalone

The rice was cooked and seasoned earlier in the day, and all the food was prepared for the evening.

Seafood prepared for sushi

We started with the squid salad, seaweed salad, and sake. We quickly descended into madness.

Seaweed salad

Squid salad

With real wasabi (instead of the paste of American horseradish that you so often see) to accompany our meal, we made our sushi, laughed at each others’ creations, and ate the best meal I have experienced in a long time.

Preparing for a cut roll (maki)

The first rule of Sushi Club is you don’t talk about Sushi Club (oops). The second rule is that it doesn’t matter what your creation looks like as long as it tastes great (and it will). I originally wanted to document the whole process of sushi and maki making, however it is available on the How To Make Sushi section of SushiFAQ, and also, to be honest, the sake got in the way.

Sake inspired maki

Nigiri sushi

We rolled and ate, ate and rolled, and by the end of the evening we didn’t have much room for the mochi and ice cream that I love. At least that stores well in the freezer.

Mochi and ice cream

While making sushi at home may seem intimidating, it does not need to be so. It is fun, interesting, and as long as you get sushi grade fish, anyone can make great food at home, to rival a restaurant. I order my fish from Catalina Offshore Products, and recommend them to anyone.  My cats even appreciated the left overs.

This week in Paris is the showdown where ICCAT (The International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas) will set bluefin tuna quotas for 2011. From November 17 – 27, meetings will take place between member nations to discuss the severe decline in bluefin tuna stocks and where the fishing quota shout be set, hopefully in order to balance demand for these creatures, which are served as sushi (maguro & toro), and the need to reduce quotas to save the species from extinction.

Conservation groups, such as WWF, are demanding severe cuts to the current quota of 13,500 metric tons caught internationally, saying that the species is on the brink of extinction and will not survive much more harvesting at these quotas, particularly as poaching increases that number significantly each year and there is some admission from member nations that they do not adhere to the quotas. The other side of the coin is the fishing nations’ complaint that reducing the quotas will end jobs and reduce the economic opportunity for the fishermen who rely on the sea. Of course, what they don’t address is what will happen to those fishermen when the tuna are commercially depleted. While the EU Fisheries Commissioner Maria Damanaki had proposed a 2011 quota of 6,000 metric tons for 2011 (which would be consistent with sustainability goals proposed for 2022), she immediately backtracked after a boisterous response from some member nations, and has instead called for a “substantial reduction” rather than a hard limit.

After the failed European Union attempt o have the species listed as endangered in March, many see this meeting as a last ditch effort to save the species. The species has declined an estimated 85% over the past four decades due to their value as a food fish, and unless more manageable practices are implemented, there is certainly reason to believe that stocks will continue to decline further.

Unfortunately the only groups that seem to be looking for year over year cuts to quotas are those that do not profit from the catch, which may indicate where the decision may lean. One can only hope that sensible minds preside and do their best to balance the need for short-term commerce with the need to preserve the species for future fishermen and sushi lovers.

Bluefin Tuna

The largest Japanese tuna seen since 1986 was auctioned Friday at the Tsukiji Fish market after being caught in Japanese Waters. The Bluefin tuna, weighing 445 kilograms (981 pounds), sold for 3.2 million Yen (36,700 USD). The average size of a Bluefin tuna is about 250 kilograms (550 pounds) to put that into perspective. Bluefin tuna this massive are rarely seen, particularly these days as overfishing has reduced their population to a small fraction of what it once was.

The largest tuna from Japan ever sold at the Tsukiji Market was 496 kilogram monster in 1986, however the largest on record was a 497 Canadian tuna sold there in 1995. While this recent catch indicates that fish this large still exist, the likelihood of any more this size being caught is relatively low as without rational limits placed on tuna fishing, commercial harvest of Bluefin tuna will end fairly soon. The sushi scene will be changed forever.

With Bluefin tuna stocks at what seem to be a critical point, Japan, with the help of Canada and a few other countries, has decided to reject a ban on Atlantic Bluefin Tuna fishing, which means that maguro may become a thing of the past. As stocks are down about 80% since the 1970s, and not allowing the stock to replenish could very well be the death knell for the Atlantic Bluefin Tuna.

Japan (and other countries) had been demanding that they would only recognize the sanctions of the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) when it came to regulating international fisheries, rather than the United Nations. This meant that the impetus to ban trade in Atlantic Bluefin Tuna, organized by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), was rejected. While ICCAT has been the body which has set fishing quotas for the fish, it has for years set quotas well above what it’s scientists say are sustainable levels. It has therefore been viewed in many circles as largely ineffective at regulating stocks.

A press release from CITES offered a brief summary of what happened:
“Japan, Canada and several members States of the Arab league opposed the proposal arguing that regional fisheries management organizations (RFMOs) as ICCAT [the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas] were best placed to tackle the decline of bluefin tuna stocks. They added that an Appendix I listing [which would ban trade in the species] would not stop the fishing of the species. After a passionate but relatively short debate, the representative of Libya requested to close the deliberations and go for a vote. Iceland called for a secret ballot. The amendment introduced by the European Union and Monaco’s proposal were defeated (20 votes in favor, 68 against, 30 abstentions) in the middle of much confusion about the voting procedures and mixed feelings of satisfaction and frustration from participants.”

Apparently there was not much debate before a vote was called, which ensured a quick resolution based on preconceived decisions.

While the hiatus from Atlantic Bluefin Tuna fishing still remains in effect, after this vote, fishing will resume again in May. We will have to wait and see what happens to Atlantic Bluefin Tuna stocks as fishing continues at these levels. There may be a day soon when maguro disappears from the menu. Only when this happens, it will be too late to save these fish.

Meshi Agare,
Warren
Sushi Otaku

Sustainable sushi is a new movement driven by the need to balance our food supply with our insatiable demand for sushi. Due to the overfishing of some species, guides are now available to help consumers choose food items that will have less environmental impact. The sustainable sushi guides help consumers determine what fish are becoming endangered by overfishing and often list the fish by both the English name and the Japanese name. The pocket guides want people to ask if the sushi they are getting was caught or farmed, allowing them to make responsible decisions when dining.

The Environmental Defense Fund’s guide is slightly more focused on the health of the consumer as well as the health of the oceans. The Defense Fund also, for example, lists Bluefin Tuna as a no-no because overfishing has caused the population of the fish to drop 90% in 30 years. Other “pass on this” selections are; farmed arctic char, red snapper, freshwater eel and monkfish.

The idea is to get more sushi chefs and restaurants to become ocean friendly. Americans love sushi and normally do not think to ask about the types of fish being served or whether they are thriving or dwindling in the ocean waters. Four conservations groups have guides coming out but the Environmental Defense Fund is said to be more informational than the others because it also lists the health benefits of each fish. The ideal is for sushi restaurants to serve more locally produced fish and also to back off from those nearing endangerment. Most seafood restaurants are already on the same page but many feel the sushi industry is dragging their heels which is what prompted the guides.

Besides the guides there are now online pages (including the SushiFAQ Sustainable Sushi Guide) that help consumers to know which fish to steer away from and which are good to go. With more and more focus on the environment it was only a matter of time before this movement took off. Sustainable sushi is all about becoming more environmentally aware and ocean friendly.

The only problem with the guides is that the ecosystem and the conditions in the ocean are constantly changing. What is said to be a safe fish today may not be safe at all tomorrow. The guides promoters have set up websites to keep the public informed of any updates that come along and if any new fish wind up on the “do not eat” list. Currently, farmed salmon is an “eat all you want” fish and has the green light from all concerned. Bluefin Tuna seems to be in real trouble and people are being greatly encouraged not to eat it and to ask if the tuna at a sushi restaurant is actually Bluefin tuna.

There has been a boon in popularity for sushi and fish in general since it became known that fish contains Omega 3 fatty acids. Since then more people have begun eating fish and the oceans are now being converged on by more fishing boats. Our oceans are over fished and the population of many of the species is dwindling. So now that we have found a healthy food that we like (in general) we are told not to eat some of it.

While restaurants in general and seafood restaurants have been fairly quick to take up the hint and start serving ocean friendly fish, it seems to be the sushi restaurants that are doing the most balking. Probably due to the increase in popularity in fish since the health benefits of fish have been realized. It seems that even being environmentally aware, they would still do a great business. So they shouldn’t serve Bluefin tuna, how about Yellowfin? There are just too many other options to hold out on a list of fish that will be out of existence all together if they are not left to reproduce.

It has taken the world long enough to become environmentally aware and it stands to reason that if the consumer becomes aware, they are going to demand that the services they obtain and the products they consume are made by businesses that are also environmentally aware.

Future generations depend on the choices we make today. If we aren’t careful there may not be sushi as we know it for our children and their children. Unless we conserve the resources we have now, we will all suffer. If the Bluefin tuna and other species of fish were given time to recoup from their losses recovery is not out of the question. It is time that restaurants are made to understand the criticality of this issue. Educating yourself is the first step in helping address this situation.  We need to halt the over fishing of many species of fish and animals. There are many alternate choices the sushi industry can make as there are other types of fish that are just as good. We can all agree that sushi is delicious and worth saving. Let’s do what we can to make sure it can be enjoyed by future generations as well. Read our guide to sustainable sushi or find one of the many available find out what you should and should not order next time you go out for fish or sushi. It all begins with you.

Warren
Sushi Otaku

Eight pacific nations have just banned the fishing of Bigeye and Yellowfin tuna from their territorial waters, in what is one of the largest statements to protect the two species from destruction. The tuna fishing ban is being undertaken by all Parties to the Nauru Agreement (PNA), including the Federated States of Micronesia, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Nauru, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Tuvalu. These nations have now banned fishing in specific areas adjacent to their exclusive economic zones. With a $3 billion pacific fishing industry at stake, they have realized that a temporary ban, to allow stocks to recover, is the only way to save these fish. I can hear the price of tuna sashimi is going up already…

Not all tuna sashimi is Bluefin tuna. Japan is a major importer of Bigeye and Yellowfin tuna and in fact the wholesale price of Bigeye tuna is up 20% in the past three years, and the price of Yellowfin is up 30%, with no end in sight. This recent ban could easily cause prices to rise at an accelerated rate. Approximately 50% of the global tuna catch is from the Pacific Ocean and a majority of that is from the areas around the PNA. High fuel costs are also impacting the fishing industry, and it has gotten so bad it is now estimated that almost 30% of the long line fishing boats may suspend operations due to the prohibitive costs of remaining in operation. The only way to offset these rising costs is to raise the price of fish, which may end up being the saving grace for these fisheries. As prices increase, more sustainable types of fishing are better able to compete, which is a necessity if tuna stocks are to avoid collapse. Since modern fishing techniques were introduced in the 1950’s, the estimated global yellowfin tuna catch has increased from approximately 110,879 tonnes in 1950 to a peak of 1,436,602 tonnes in 2003. In 2006, that number had receded to 1,129,415 tonnes and has somewhat stabilized there for the time being. Without some conservation efforts, that number will continue to go down due to reduces numbers of fish in the ocean. And tuna are not the only fish in danger of over fishing. Ultimately, there is not simple solution to preserving these piscine communities, but with the push for sustainable fishing, acceptance that prices must go up, and the actions of people who avoid destructive fishing practices, we can ensure our supply of sushi and sashimi ingredients in the future.

<rant>I almost feel as though I’m turning this blog into an activist channel for the protection of endangered pelagic species. While I do not intend that to be the case, I do feel that it is important to raise this issue as it is important for anyone interested in seafood (and sushi/sashimi in particular) to be aware of these facts. I would be unhappy if my sushi dinners became a prohibitively expensive treat. Or a non-existent one. We need a greater impetus to ensure the survival of our aquatic fare, and the best way to achieve this is to be aware of what you eat, where it came from, and act accordingly. And it never hurts to ask questions.</rant>

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku