Sushi Otaku

Archive for the ‘Sushi Traditions’ Category

I’ve always been a fan of sake. In fact, I prefer it to wine, which as a westerner obviously has to do with a taste acquired from my frequent sushi dining. When I order sushi I order sake. Some traditionalists say that one should not drink sake while eating sushi, “rice and rice,” but I never understood the logic behind that. Good sake is a great companion to the subtle flavours of sushi. Dry sake does not interrupt the taste of your meal; it provides balance and a palate cleansing to help differentiate each piece. And for those of you who prefer a sweet sake, that works too as the seasoned rice has a slight sweetness to it. Of course my number one rule is that if you like it, do it. While I can certainly appreciate a good wine/sake, I’ve never been a snob about it.

Many people, east and west, drink beer with their sushi. Often, Japanese beers (lagers) that tend to have a lighter body and flavor (in comparison to some of the western craft ales that can be darker and heavier). This makes sense as a heavy beer can easily cause you to lose sight of your meal and it’s subtlety. Some beers are meals in and of themselves. The Japanese beers lean more towards the sake spectrum as alcoholic beverages go, and often do accompany a good hunk maguro. But they still seem like too much for something as subtle as ika (squid) and other, lighter fare.

Sake is an interesting beverage. I won’t go into a detailed history since it’s an easy search, but the different styles that have evolved are a great insight into the complexity of the drink. Hot or cold. “Pearl” or clear (pearl is a white, cloudy sake with the some of the fermented rice solids, or”lees” remaining in the drink). There are many ways to enjoy sake.

Historically, sake was served warm. This would actually help mask some of the off flavors produced during production and the storage techniques that contributed a “woody” flavor. Sake was not, historically, a complex or sophisticated drink, but it certainly was robust. That’s not a criticism, just a result of the way it was produced. Over time, techniques became more sophisticated, the chemical reactions better understood, rice tailored to sake production was created and overall, a better beverage evolved. Today, generally the cheaper sakes are still served warm, but better ones are served chilled. And better they are. Today’s sakes are as complex and sophisticated as any wine (and have as many way to describe their taste, body, etc.). And that is why they can be easily paired with any food, and especially sushi.

I drink green tea after my meal. But I always have a glass (or two) of sake with my sushi. Sake can stand up to the western style spicy scallop roll or the traditional hamachi sashimi . It’s also great on its own. I always keep a bottle of my favorite in the fridge. Those of you who may have tried it but may have been turned off by a warm glass should really try a cold glass of the good stuff. And drink one for me.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

N.B. I’m going on holiday for a bit so I won’t be able to post for about 2 weeks or so. But hopefully I’ll find some sushi to talk about when I get back. Let’s just hope I’ll have something positive to say.

Where does sushi come from? This is a question with a number of answers, and while the obvious one is ‘from the sea’ a more thorough answer explores the markets through which our favorite food passes, if it makes the grade. Top quality sushi must come from high quality fish, processed and handled appropriately, chosen carefully at the point of sale, and transported to your local sushi-ya speedily. One weak link in this chain will result in a sub-par dining experience, a sushi meal that is so-so instead of satisfying. Few people stop to appreciate the complexity of finding the perfect fish, and getting it to the restaurant, ready for the rush of diners who expect the best.

In articles to come, I will explain the sushi supply chain in greater detail, but for now, I would like to highlight the end-all be-all of sushi sources, the largest wholesale market on Earth: the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, otherwise known as the Tsukiji Fish Market. Located in the district of Ch??-ku, Tokyo, the Tsukiji Fish Market facilitates the sale of over 2,800 tons of more than 450 types of seafood per day, almost 1/6^th of the world’s fish. The market is open every day except Sunday, with the day beginning at 3:00 am, ready for the rush. The auction houses inspect the fish that arrive daily, calculating the potential value, and preparing for the upcoming auctions. Licensed buyers are already present, having inspected the fish themselves, determining the ones they will be bidding on, and the auction begins at 5:30 am. Once complete at 7:00 am, the buyers ship out the fish they have purchased, or cart them over to one of the many processors who have set up shop on premises. It is an amazing sight to behold, literally tons of frozen fish being wheeled around the market, then being summarily cut into manageable pieces with giant band saws, while fresh (unfrozen) products are cut apart with giant knives (some of which are over a meter in length) called oroshi hocho (the largest at 150 cm) or hancho hocho (a shorter blade at 100 cm, which is also called maguro kiri). By 11:00 am the market has wound down for the day and is then cleaned at 1:00 pm.

The Tsukiji market is not just tuna, but has just about any product from the sea that you can imagine, from shrimp to seaweed. Creatures both living and processed can be found, and the bustle is immense. Guided tours are available, and visitors must obey strict rules when at the market to keep interruptions to a minimum. The auctions are no longer accessible to tours, but the rest of the market is available for exploration.

The Tsukiji Fish Market was established in the early 1600’s, as an “Uogashi,” or riverside fish market. The first Tokugawa shogun had invited fishermen from Tsukudajima, Osaka, to supply Edo castle with seafood in return for allowing them to fish the waters of the area. What was not supplied to the castle was then sold near the Nihonbashi Bridge. Over time, Nihonbashi Uogashi developed into a thriving market led by wholesale merchants licensed by the shogunate. Expanding in size and transaction volume, the market attracted secondary markets to the area, and the vegetable markets brought with them the tradition of auctioning foodstuffs, previously not done by fish sellers. By 1923 Tokyo (Edo’s new name) had a great number of markets which were all destroyed by the Great Kanto Earthquake. This led to the reconstruction of the three major markets in the region, Tokyo, Kanda, and Koto. The Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo is perhaps the most famous today, and has established a reputation of mythic proportions. It is a place where the most expensive fish in the world was sold, and perhaps the largest port of call for fish destined for the sushi markets of the Japan, and even North America. When I think of sushi, the Tsukiji fish market if one of the first things that comes to mind, as the bustle of the trade there has become synonymous with the delivery of the freshest food the sea has to offer.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

Sushi has been a popular item in the west for a few decades now and as with anything that makes its way across cultures, it has readily changed to better match western palates. But unlike noodles and soybeans, sushi has not merely changed to fit our preferences; it has begun to shape how we view our foods in the west as well. Recently, I have seen what I believe to be the pinnacle of intrusion, the actual supplanting of traditional western food culture with an Eastern import, in an unlikely place. And due to this, sushi has become more than, or perhaps less than, just sushi, and I am not yet sure what this might mean. Allow me to elaborate…

I was at an Italian restaurant the other evening with friends, a rather upscale establishment started by a well-known celebrity chef (since New York needs more of these restaurants). Looking for great seafood and not having eaten there yet, it was a perfect choice to meet, and we were all eager to try it out. The menu was enticing, varied, and upon reflection, strange. The appetizer list had a section of raw fish, some ceviche style, and some purely raw, but some of the items were not listed by their Italian names (what I expected) nor their English names (what I also would have expected), but by their Japanese names. I ended up ordering hamachi sashimi in a somewhat upscale Italian restaurant, and it became one of many sushi items I had that evening. The fish was not sliced in the same manner as sushi would be, nor was it the same cut (portion) of the fish that is normally used to make sushi/sashimi. It was also not served in the manner of sushi or sashimi. Yet it was labeled as such. It was quite tasty, but I cannot fathom why they would list it as hamachi instead of yellowtail. It seemed odd to find an item referred to in the third party language without context in an Italian restaurant.

When Italian restaurants list items under their Japanese names, and sushi is available at 7-11 stores, I start to wonder what has changed. While there is certainly no rule that sushi and sashimi must remain in a Japanese restaurant, and that the terms be restricted to such use, it seems more than out of place to find such a dish, and the use of the terminology, in such surprising places. When something has become so pervasive that it can no longer be separated from its counterparts, I question one’s ability to define it. It dilutes the brand, and shows how pervasive it has become that it has jumped from exotic, to mainstream, and then possibly to boring. That said, there is nothing uninspiring about a lengthy and adventurous dinner at Sushi Yasuda in New York, yet still, perhaps, when a once exotic food has so ingrained itself in another culture it becomes something different entirely. Something that only in name retains its roots. What that thing is though is to me uncertain as becomes easy to lose the qualities that make it exotic fare.

We need the great traditional Japanese restaurants such as Sushi Yasuda, and the impressive sushi works of Nobu to keep the art and evolution of good sushi and sashimi ever present in our cultural palate. We need reminders that what to westerners is exotic fare can evolve and remain such, and hopefully there will be no need to lament what sushi has become. Some foods and cultures mix exceptionally well, such as the infusion of French culinary culture into traditional Vietnamese cooking. But a melange can only go so far before it leaves the realm of fusion and becomes pedestrian. My final feeling that we have reached the point of no return will be when I see, in the glass window next to the garish clown, a poster for the new McMaki with cheese.

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

In what is good news for California Roll eaters, today Japan has formally announced a campaign for certifying Japanese food overseas without Big Brother inspecting the sushi. Initially covered back in December of 2006 in my piece “The sushi police are here to see you,” the Japanese ministry of Agriculture, along with a “non-governmental group of experts” has launched a campaign which will allow Japanese restaurants in various countries to certify their food as authentic and proudly display the Japanese Seal of Approval. With chopsticks holding a cherry blossom in front of a rising sun, the logo seems to capture the essence of Japanese food and culture, while allowing restaurants to tout their traditional offerings.

There will be no sushi police, merely the ability for restaurant goers to be sure that the food they are eating adheres to traditional standards. These standards do not cover foods such as the American California Roll and other items that westerners have become accustomed to, but may never have known are not standard fare in Japan. “Our objective is to promote Japanese food, not eliminate Japanese restaurants” a member of the board was quoted as saying.

In order to qualify for certification, restaurants should use authentic Japanese products, such as wasabi (preferably from the Izu peninsula), koshihikari rice (grown in Japan), pickled ginger (preferably from Tochigi), and miso paste (preferably from the Nagano mountains). They must also display knowledge of Japanese recipes as well as proper hygiene (great news! ). Restaurants must adhere to the five specified criteria of authenticity, such as dish arrangement, originality, and customer service.

On March 27^th and 28^th the organization will be holding a conference to review the certification criteria and process, and have invited restaurant owners from around the world. There are an estimated 25,000 Japanese restaurants around to world, and that number is expected to double over the next few years. With all those restaurants, the hope is that as consumption of Japanese food increases world-wide, standards will be maintained, to a degree, and that Japanese food will remain relatively the same, unlike “Chinese food” restaurants, which have almost nothing in common with traditional Chinese meals. For westerners, you will still have your spicy tuna rolls, California rolls, and Philadelphia rolls in many of your local restaurants. But you will also be able to go out and find traditional Japanese food as well, certified by the Japanese government. Practically speaking, there won’t be much difference, and there will be no sushi police watching over your shoulder. Not that I was worried anyway, but still, it wouldn’t have been fun to have to go under the table to sneak some avocado into my unagi maki.

Meshi Agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

Firstly a warning to my readers, the following entry contains graphic descriptions of what may be considered animal cruelty by some, and may be a bit extreme for some readers. If you do not want to hear stories of the preparation of living sea animals for food, please do not read this entry. Caveat lector.

Many of you may have heard stories of sushi so fresh that it was still alive when it was served. I’ve seen live octopus, lobster sashimi and fish still moving, filleted on the plate. While some of these stories are true, I’m here to clarify some of these tales, debunk some, and provide some insight into some of the more unusual items found around the world on the menu.

The Living and the Dead

The first issue I’d like to address, and actually debunk, is the story of the living fish, served sashimi style or even partially cooked, yet still live, served for your pleasure (obviously not the fish’s). What brought this to mind is the following news story on the living deep fried fish, where the body has been deep fried and the head still trying to breathe on the platter when served. I have also seen fish propped up on the plate while its body has been filleted and served alongside it, the gills moving and the head seemingly still alive. But while those who serve these fish may want you to believe that the animal is still living, displaying its freshness, the truth is that while the remaining muscle may be still twitching, it is far from alive. Muscles continue to contract after death, longer in some animals than others. But a brain needs oxygen to be conscious (and alive) and without blood flowing through its veins, no animal remains alive. Deep frying half a fish, or filleting it while it is still alive fortunately kills the animal fairly quickly, contrary to the claims of the server.

Some crustaceans and mollusks on the other hand, are most certainly eaten live. Anyone who has eaten an oyster or clam on the half shell is eating a living animal. In fact, if it is dead, you wouldn’t want to eat it raw, there is too much risk of bacterial infection. But those are not the exciting stories you came for. It is not easy to find live food in North America. If you can find it, it’s usually not on the menu. But nevertheless, it can be found. But again, I use the term ‘live’ lightly

Lobster sashimi is often claimed to be served live. If you can find it, the tail is removed from the animal and quickly prepared sashimi style while the head is placed on ice and garnished… waving its antennae or claws at you in possible revenge? That’s the theory, at least. What really happens is that the lobster dies pretty quickly after having its tail severed from its thorax, and any movement you may see is just random neuronal firing from muscles being starved of oxygen. The creature’s brain (ganglia actually) has ceased to respond. You see, Lobsters have an open circulatory system, unlike the veins and arteries of non-crustaceans, and the pressure difference when the tail is removed is enough to stop any blood from washing headwards. That critter, as they say, is, by the time it gets to you, an ex-lobster.

One of the few non-mollusks that is actually served and eaten live is the shrimp. But it is not the shrimp that you are used to eating in a restaurant. ‘Drunken shrimp’ as it is called, is a special, smaller shrimp native to Southeast Asia and served in a bowl in some type of alcoholic beverage, be it sake, or the local equivalent. The shrimp become listless after sitting in the alcohol for a few minutes and they are taken out , pulled apart, and sucked out of their shell (not always an easy task, mind you). They are pretty close to dead at the point of consumption, but for those of you who want the excitement of live food, there you go. Every once in a while you may get a bowl that was prepared moments before, and you may have some ‘jumpers.’ I’m sure you can imagine what kind of a scene that is…

Another mollusk sometimes served live is the octopus. I have seen (but never eaten) a bowl of live octopodes being consumed, tentacles desperately clinging to the chewing orifice of the diner. It is not a pretty sight, and while I pride myself on eating anything, I can only imagine the suffering of the animal so I chose not to partake of that particular meal. It is more popular in Korea, however, than elsewhere, so good luck finding it in North America.

So the stories of live sushi are basically based on a few examples, more assumptions and a lot of stories. With the exception of the aforementioned mollusks and shrimp, pretty much anything served ‘live’ is not really living, just showing the vestiges of random nerve twitching found in any recently deceased animal. While certainly a testament to its freshness, the presentation of the body or the whole of the animal is certainly a sight to behold. Some stories are true, but many are just for show, entertainment for our eyes as well as our taste buds. Meshi agare.

Warren
The sushi guy

Japan is a fascinating country. Steeped in tradition, yet quick to adopt new technologies and trends, Japanese culture is an interesting melange of the old and the new. That said, while they took the transistor from its western inventors and changed the world, some things I’m hearing don’t sound like progress to me. If you read my previous entry about declining Bluefin tuna stocks threatening the future of sushi dining, you would know that the tuna situation is close to dire. Not willing to give up without a fight, inventive Japanese sushi chefs have come up with a new item… get ready…Venison sushi. Yes, you heard right, Deer sushi. If you don’t believe me, check out this article in the New York Times (free subscription required to view).

I’m a foodie and always eager to try new things. I eat insects, jellyfish, and I happen to love venison (mmmmm… jerky). I love steak tartar. But I have to say that I have no interest in trying this. It’s like Tofurky, one food should not be trying to masquerade as another, it should be appreciated for its own merits. Maguro, toro, o-toro, all these tuna sushi items are prized for the innate qualities that make them unique. This cannot be duplicated with a four legged critter, it is an entirely different kind of food. Personally, the last thing I want is to be eating my tai, suzuki, sake, and then but a piece of raw deer in my mouth. It just doesn’t fit. Without getting into the difference between fast-twitch and slow-twitch muscle tissue, suffice it to say that fish cannot be any further from deer, biologically speaking. While many don’t like to view their food as once thinking, I am just trying to point out that deer is not a pelagic beast and it can never replace one. It will have a different taste, and a different texture. I admire risk taking and adaptability, but some things just shouldn’t be. Maguro is not a rich, meaty food, and just because a piece of venison may somewhat, ever so slightly resemble a piece of maguro, it is not maguro and I think shouldn’t be used in its place.

There are many fish in the sea, if I may, and it is certainly a tragedy that our species feels the need to decimate other species for our own gain, but a simple hiatus on tuna fishing would help the situation greatly. We wouldn’t need to eat red meat to replace our tuna if we just took a break. A little while without toro won’t kill any of us.

The New York Times article concludes with a statement I never thought I would hear from a Japanese chef; “We can learn from American sushi chefs,” Mr. Yamagata said. Without Japanese culture being the way it is, sushi would never have achieved the artful grace unique to the dish. The last thing I want to see is a Big Mac Maki, and I’m sticking to my guns on this one.

Meshi Agare!
Warren
The Sushi Guy

How many times have you wondered whether it is acceptable to eat sushi with your fingers? And how many times have you been told that it isn’t? As a matter of etiquette, many cultures eschew eating with one’s fingers, which seems to be ingrained particularly deeply in western behavior. But be at ease, sushi fans, because sushi has a long history of being finger food, at least some sushi that is.

Nigiri (finger) sushi was the first “fast food.” Originally sold from carts in the street, it acquired its shape so as to be easy to eat on the go. It wasn’t until centuries after its introduction that the sushi restaurant came to be. And with the restaurant, came new ways of eating sushi. In bowls and boxes, platters and leaves, sushi in its myriad forms was served to a growing pool of restaurant goers. While still finger food, some styles were introduced that could not be easily eaten with the fingers (and shouldn’t be), such as sashimi. But while many choose to eat nigiri sushi with chopsticks, this only seems to be a question in the western world.

So… Can I eat sushi with my fingers, you ask? Of course, nigiri sushi is the ultimate finger food.

Meshi Agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

Apparently the sushi police are on their way. With the popularity of sushi spreading worldwide, it should be no surprise that everyone and their brother wants to jump on the bandwagon. The problem is that now, it is as easy to find horrible food that is supposed to pass for sushi, being served by people who barely know what sushi is. On top of that, we see combinations in rolls that would mystify the Japanese, but may not seem so unusual locally. After a number of supposedly high profile incidents round the world involving ranking Japanese politicians, Japan has recently decided to begin to develop a system whereby the Japanese government will issue seals of approval to certify that the sushi and sake being served in a restaurant meets with the stringent requirements of the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture.

This ‘authentication plan’ is not a new concept, France has for a long time protected the names of various wine appellations and designations to protect its industry, and even cheese manufacturers worldwide have similar protections in place. While some claim that this smacks of Japanese nationalism, it remains to be seen whether this will really make any difference. While a fizzy California wine cannot be called “champagne,” plenty of bad “sparkling wine” is purchased every year by people to whom the designation does not matter. And many folks will still go to their favorite sushi restaurant and get their “Philadelphia roll” even if it is in no way even remotely a Japanese product.

While some of the more traditional sushi-ya may opt for the new designation, and perhaps even revel in it, ultimately, the dish has been adopted by many different cultures and will forever reflect the tastes and desires of these non-Japanese influences. While I can appreciate the desire to protect something that was so uniquely Japanese (sort of), this seems to me full of sound and fury, signifying nothing. I know what I like and I know what is and is not truly Japanese, and the two do not always meet. For those who don’t know the difference, I’m sure that they are perfectly happy eating what they eat. So bring on the sushi police and feel free to crack down on the places that may have unsafe practices, but don’t try to take away my spicy scallop roll. But if they would like to sit down with me, I’ll gladly pour them a glass of sake.

Meshi agare.
Warren
The sushi guy.

N.B. For an update to this story, please see my entry “Restaurant Certification 1, Sushi Police 0”

I have touched on this topic before, but I was looking at my spider roll (soft shell crab) the other night and thought about just how incredible it was relative to my non-sushi meals. It got me thinking, as always, that it may not be a traditional sushi offering, but not only did it fit in well with the traditional sushi on my plate, but it just worked and was incredibly good. (To clarify, while crab (kani) is very common in Japanese cuisine, and even sushi (or maki-zushi), deep frying a soft shell crab and adding mayonnaise, cucumber, avocado, et al. is not a traditional Japanese sushi-ya offering).

In Japan, there are traditional sushi-ya and non-traditional sushi-ya. In North America, there a very few traditional sushi-ya (although some great ones, see my Sushi Yasuda blog entry to hear about one), and those that exist are not necessarily easy to identify. In fact, some of the most popular ones (e.g. Nobu in New York City) are not even remotely traditional. Not that that’s a bad thing. We North Americans don’t always know what is and is not traditional sushi-ya fare, and I’m not going to go through the list here. While there may be traditionalists out there who bemoan the development of “fusion” sushi cuisine and the changing landscape, there are many benefits to having it both ways. As I mentioned, that spider roll was a really incredible roll. And who can ignore the popularity of the “California roll?”

While I tend to shy away from the salmon and cream cheese rolls, I can readily appreciate the blend of flavours offered by the many new styles of sushi that appear in sushi-ya here in North America. I also respect the subtle classic offerings that are found in contemporary as well as traditionalist sushi-ya. It is not an unusual occurrence for a culture to adopt and adapt a cuisine (or technology, or anything else) over time, so I think we all should acknowledge the non-traditional sushi as we have accepted all new ideas over time. After all, without the adoption of fire one day long ago, we would all still be eating our food raw. Oh, Wait.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

Generally when we go out to eat we are friendly enough with the waiter (waitress) but don’t think too much about anything other than our food and companions. This is not a bad thing, however I feel that when you are enjoying such an exquisite meal as sushi, there are great advantages to making a new friend. The itamae (the Japanese name for a sushi (or other) chef and pronounced ita-meh-ee), politely addressed as itamae-san. One thing that many westerners do not know is that there are many sushi items that are seasonal, and others that are not normally on the menu but can be requested. By virtue of that, they almost become off limits to most people. I’ve also, at times, been steered away from items that are no longer at their peak of freshness. How’s that for service?

For years I went to a particular sushi-ya and sat in almost the same seat every time at the sushi bar. Over time, I got to know the itamae, Sato-san, quite well, and he got to know me. By being interested in what he was doing, why he selected the fish he did, and even buying him a beer now and then, we actually became good friends. I was at first surprised at how accessible and friendly he was, even though he was often quite busy. But sushi was his job, and sushi was becoming my life, so we hit it off.

Over time he introduced me to things I would not normally have encountered, nor even tried. Fried shrimp heads (actually quite good). Ankimo (monkfish liver). And fresh wasabi (the green horseradish-like rhizome that accompanies your sushi meal). For years I had eaten the horseradish and food colouring blob on my plate actually thinking it was wasabi. One day, he took a brownish-green gnarled object and grated it on a device covered in sharkskin. Real wasabi, and what a difference it made. And what an interesting technique. I would also sit down at the bar and he would often, without my asking, place a nice appetizer down for me to try, or something I’d never seen before. On the house. It was great.

By my being inquisitive and respectful of his art we developed a great relationship, and he educated me in the history and sources of many foods in which I was quickly developing a keen interest. I’d never heard of Bonito flakes, but talk about an interesting historical methodology (but that’s something for another blog entry). He was full of informational tidbits. If you’re into free stuff, it never hurts to befriend the itamae, but it really is so much more than that. There isn’t all that much to talk about regarding the food at an Italian or French restaurant that most folks don’t already know. But I’d be willing to bet that you can always learn something new at a sushi-ya. The itamae is your friend. You just don’t know it yet.

Warren
The Sushi Guy