Sushi Otaku

Archive for the ‘Food Items’ Category

Идея за подаръкHow will you feel when there is no more bluefin tuna sushi? No maguro. No toro. While I tend to rant a bit when it comes to the issue of over harvesting bluefin tuna, I will try to take a step off my pedestal for this entry, but I would really like to hear what others have to say if the situation gets to the point where there is no more bluefin tuna commercially viable. It is a very real possibility in the not too distant future.

Many restaurants serve big eye tuna, yellowfin, or other species rather than bluefin tuna, even when a person may think they are ordering bluefin. While they don’t imply they are serving bluefin and to purposefully bait and switch, nevertheless, very often you are not being served bluefin when you order a tuna roll. This makes me wonder. If no one is particularly conscious of what they are eating, and they see plenty of “tuna,” it may not be on people’s minds that real maguro and toro may disappear. As long as you still receive what you are expecting based on historical precedence, nothing needs to change.

So perhaps it will make no difference when the bluefin tuna disappears from the oceans. Diners will keep ordering tuna, without knowing what species they are eating. No one will be the wiser. I don’t mean this in any pejorative way, either, while the loss of a species is a tragedy, for all intents and purposes, it may not affect the sushi world in any real way.

How do other sushi diners feel about this? I certainly eat tuna, and when I can, avoid bluefin. But There are still plenty of fish in the sea (and the aqua farms), so to speak. Is the loss of bluefin a concern for you? Will you miss real toro? Would you back a forced sustainability program to keep the real fish on the plate? Do tell.

Ah, the humble California roll. While I often refer to this as the “Big Mac” of rolls, it is actually quite tasty, given its lack of any real historical precedents. California rolls are far from traditional sushi, but they aren’t as far from the norm as you might expect. All it took was a little innovation and something was created that now dominates the sushi world.

The style of sushi we know and love originates in Japan, and the Japanese are known for their adoption and innovation of western ideas. As sushi moved westward into the U.S., it became more and more popular. California was a natural inception point for many things Japanese, and sushi was a big hit on the west coast from the start. Back in the 1960′s, though, food transportation was not as efficient as it is now, so acquiring certain types of fish was not always easy. Supply didn’t often meet demand, and in a particular sushi bar called Tokyo Kaikan in Los Angeles, a sushi chef named Ichiro Mashita found himself lacking in toro, the fatty tuna belly, which was much in demand. So he began substituting avocado for the toro, and having a creamy, fatty consistency, this worked out well. After a little more experimentation, Ichiro devised the roll that we today call the California Roll.

From a simple substitution came a roll that that is one of the most popular today. While it is very American in terms of it’s constituents (avocado was never used in Japan in sushi until it became popular in the U.S.), one might argue that this is a great example of the Japanese concept of urawaza (translated as secret trick), where a person experiments to find a simple solution to a common or simple problem. No toro? Try something similar… And it eventually transformed into something new and interesting. While It is not a perfect analogy, it is a perfect example of gastronomic creativity. While it is not something always on my plate, I certainly enjoy ordering a California roll on occasion, and it is a reminder of how food can evolve as local adaptations are accepted.

If you love California rolls but are unsure of how healthy they are, check out the California roll calories and nutrition information entry in our sushi calories and nutrition information page. Or make one at home, with the California roll entry on our recipes page!

Bluefin Tuna

And we have a winner! Today, January 5th, 2011, a 754 pound bluefin tuna was sold in the Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan for a whopping $396,000 (or about $526/lb). What makes this even more interesting is that the last record sale price was recorded on the exact same date in 2001, 10 years ago to the day. What a coincidence! (well, sort of, as this is the first auction of the year, but it’s still interesting).

While this is news in and of itself, this could be the final record for a long time as the November 2010 meeting where the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT) decreased the 2011 quota by only 4%. With these fish over harvested for years, it is just a matter of time before they are commercially extinct.

As I do on occasion, last weekend I decided to make sushi at home. We had some friends over, supplied the fish and the sake, and for a few hours, we were our own itamae (sushi chef).  My order from Catalina Offshore Products arrived on Friday, and I immediately prepared the food and stored it properly for the festivities. I make sushi at home with uncertain frequency, but I have made available a section of SushiFAQ about how to make sushi at home that I recommend anyone read if they too are interested in doing the same. It is fun, relatively easy, and an experience you won’t soon forget. It is a hands on meal, and as such, I feel it creates a pleasant, informal atmosphere the brings out the best in people, as they share their creations, make a mess with their first few rolls, and share high quality food that they love.

The food arrived the next day, and I was eager to start preparing.

Sushi grade fish awaiting processing

As there were 6 of us eating (5 adults and one 8 year old who has developed a love of sushi) there was a great deal of food to prepare. One of the favorites of the evening was the tuna. A 2 pound block had to be cut properly so that we could make both nigiri sushi, cut rolls (maki), and hand rolls (temaki). Of course we also ended up eating a lot as sashimi as well. The bits and pieces that were not shaped into the block were used in rolls to great effect.

Preparing tuna for sushi

While I tend to avoid farmed salmon, I was assured by the folks at Catalina that this particular fish from New Zealand was not the usual junk that I feel most farmed salmon is. And they were right. The fillet was beautiful, it did not look artificially colored, the texture was great, and had all the rich buttery-ness that I come to expect from high grade salmon. They have changed my mind about what farmed salmon can be.

The scallops were huge. Practically the size of my fist (or so it seemed) I had to cut them in half before slicing them yet again so they would fit on the rice as nigiri sushi. They were fresh, dry scallops (not treated with sodium tripolyphosphate to preserve and bulk them up), and I couldn’t help popping a few in my mouth intact while preparing them, something I rarely get to do. Creamy and sweet, they are probably one of my favorite items from the sea.

Scallops ready for sushi

Then, the rarely ordered abalone. These guys are shipped live, like oysters, and are not something many people have the chance to experience. They are not inexpensive, nor are they easy to prepare, but they are worth every minute of effort. I cleaned them, and sliced them thinly to be eaten, preferably, as sashimi. While still a bit crunchy, they are subtly redolent of the sea and a rare treat for me at home.

Live abalone

The rice was cooked and seasoned earlier in the day, and all the food was prepared for the evening.

Seafood prepared for sushi

We started with the squid salad, seaweed salad, and sake. We quickly descended into madness.

Seaweed salad

Squid salad

With real wasabi (instead of the paste of American horseradish that you so often see) to accompany our meal, we made our sushi, laughed at each others’ creations, and ate the best meal I have experienced in a long time.

Preparing for a cut roll (maki)

The first rule of Sushi Club is you don’t talk about Sushi Club (oops). The second rule is that it doesn’t matter what your creation looks like as long as it tastes great (and it will). I originally wanted to document the whole process of sushi and maki making, however it is available on the How To Make Sushi section of SushiFAQ, and also, to be honest, the sake got in the way.

Sake inspired maki

Nigiri sushi

We rolled and ate, ate and rolled, and by the end of the evening we didn’t have much room for the mochi and ice cream that I love. At least that stores well in the freezer.

Mochi and ice cream

While making sushi at home may seem intimidating, it does not need to be so. It is fun, interesting, and as long as you get sushi grade fish, anyone can make great food at home, to rival a restaurant. I order my fish from Catalina Offshore Products, and recommend them to anyone.  My cats even appreciated the left overs.

For you sushi grade fish lovers, online seafood purveyor Catalina Offshore Products is having a black Friday special all week . Not only are they offering free shipping on all orders over $150, but thy are throwing in 1lb of fresh sashimi grade yellowtail for free with those orders. This is a great deal for anyone who likes sushi grade seafood and, like me, likes to buy seafood online.

Just remember to use the coupon code “blackfri” at checkout.

Update! While the black Friday offer has expired, Catalina Offshore has generously offered all SushiFAQ readers a 10%* discount on their purchase if they use the following coupon code at checkout: “sushifaq” (without the quotes, or course). So head on over as this offer is for a limited time only.

* Not valid with any other offer. Not valid for the purchase of gift certificates. Coupon may only be used one time per customer. Valid on orders of $100 or more.

This week in Paris is the showdown where ICCAT (The International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas) will set bluefin tuna quotas for 2011. From November 17 – 27, meetings will take place between member nations to discuss the severe decline in bluefin tuna stocks and where the fishing quota shout be set, hopefully in order to balance demand for these creatures, which are served as sushi (maguro & toro), and the need to reduce quotas to save the species from extinction.

Conservation groups, such as WWF, are demanding severe cuts to the current quota of 13,500 metric tons caught internationally, saying that the species is on the brink of extinction and will not survive much more harvesting at these quotas, particularly as poaching increases that number significantly each year and there is some admission from member nations that they do not adhere to the quotas. The other side of the coin is the fishing nations’ complaint that reducing the quotas will end jobs and reduce the economic opportunity for the fishermen who rely on the sea. Of course, what they don’t address is what will happen to those fishermen when the tuna are commercially depleted. While the EU Fisheries Commissioner Maria Damanaki had proposed a 2011 quota of 6,000 metric tons for 2011 (which would be consistent with sustainability goals proposed for 2022), she immediately backtracked after a boisterous response from some member nations, and has instead called for a “substantial reduction” rather than a hard limit.

After the failed European Union attempt o have the species listed as endangered in March, many see this meeting as a last ditch effort to save the species. The species has declined an estimated 85% over the past four decades due to their value as a food fish, and unless more manageable practices are implemented, there is certainly reason to believe that stocks will continue to decline further.

Unfortunately the only groups that seem to be looking for year over year cuts to quotas are those that do not profit from the catch, which may indicate where the decision may lean. One can only hope that sensible minds preside and do their best to balance the need for short-term commerce with the need to preserve the species for future fishermen and sushi lovers.

Salmon

According to the FDA in a statement a few days ago, a salmon genetically engineered to grow very quickly was deemed safe to eat by the agency. With the addition of some genes from a different fish, the salmon takes half the time to grow to market size, which leads to a less expensive product, though not necessarily a better one.

Putting aside the incendiary fears of “frankenfood” the inclusion of this fish, unlabeled, in the food supply does raise some new questions about safety. I have written about farmed fish, and the higher incidence of pollutants and antibiotics found in them, which my still be an issue as these fish are farmed, but in addition there is the potential for allergic reactions in some people who may not know that they are consuming a fish with substances not normally present in a salmon. While this is not likely to be a common problem, it would be unfortunate if you were the person it happened to. The presence of more growth hormone than would normally be found in the fish may also concern some sushi diners, as some studies have suggested that higher levels of these compounds, when eaten, may lead to an increased risk of some cancers. I am not trying to incite people to run around with torches and pitchforks, but I did want to point out that most likely this fish will be on your sushi or sashimi platter and you won’t be told. I am not promoting a backlash, but transparency. I would like to be told what I am eating, particularly if it is not what I am expecting.

While it will likely take two to three years for the salmon to reach consumers, I still lump this salmon in with farmed salmon. My preference is to eat wild salmon as it has less contaminants, and is likely better for you as the wild fish eat other fish in the wild instead of food from a bag, and may have more heart friendly omega 3 fatty acids. I always ask if the salmon is farm raised or wild, and order based on the answer. I encourage consumers to educate themselves and don’t feel intimidated to ask the same question if it is an issue important to them.

As if the serving of endangered Bluefin Tuna were not enough, a Santa Monica, California restaurant called “The Hump” is alleged to have been serving whale as part of its omakase menu, according to the New York Times. They indicate activists surreptitiously filmed themselves being served what was tested to be Sei Whale, an endangered whale still fished in Japan and sold as “Kujira.” Serving marine mammals is illegal in the US, however the Japanese still fish and serve whale under the auspices of “scientific research.” In the US, however, this is a big no-no. There is no word as to what will happen if this is indeed true, however the law suggests up to a year in jail and a $20,000 fine for selling the flesh of marine mammals. Oops?

Whale offered at the Tsukiji fish market in Japan

Warren
Sushi Otaku

To westerners, the Japanese name for various sushi items can be difficult to remember, but worse even is when terms are used interchangeably or incorrectly. I thought it would be interesting to start a series on clarifying item names (in the vein of my White Tuna – Sushi Confusion piece of yore), providing some insight for sushi fans who may scratch their heads at times over terminology. Or even just for the curious. Someone was testing my knowledge the other day, firing off the Japanese names for various items from a list they had, and when they got to hirame I replied “Fluke.” Nothing odd about that, hirame is the Japanese term for fluke. But hirame was mislabeled on the sheet as being halibut. Apparently there is nothing odd about that as well, as it turns out that many sushi restaurants mislabel halibut as hirame.

To clear up some of this confusion, I have added to the sushi item profile section a combined entry on hirame (Fluke) and ohyo (Halibut) in order to help diners differentiate between the two fish. When two different species are served under the same name in a restaurant, it not only feels disrespectful to the consumer, but it adds to the existing confusion of interpreting foreign names for known fish, in an environment where people should feel comfortable while enjoying a meal.

Fluke (hirame) is a much smaller fish than the Halibut (ohyo). It will also have a firmer texture and will be presented differently due to its smaller size, often as paired, small fillets on top of each piece of rice (shari). Halibut (ohyo) is a much larger fish and is sliced and presented the way any other fish would be,  unlike its flat cousin, the Fluke. Seasonal factors come into play as well since fluke is best in the winter months, being less mushy. Of course, simply asking which particular fish is being served is the easiest way of determining what you are eating, however prior to ordering a person might not know what to expect without asking.

For westerners, just trying to remember the appropriate Japanese word for an item is difficult enough, but then trying to discern between all the different types of a fish, combined with mis-labeling, it is more than a little bit confusing. Hopefully now, though, you will know what you are getting when you ask for hirame. For a more detailed look at these two fish and greater insight into the nomenclature and contrast, please read the Hirame and Ohyo section of the sushi item profiles. A fish by any other name would taste so sweet…

Warren
Sushi Otaku

If there is one type of rice that best represents sushi and Japanese culinary arts, it is Koshihikari rice (often called “Koshi rice”). Koshihikari rice is considered a super-premium short grain rice that is unique in its characteristics, with a firmness, consistency, aroma, and a natural sweetness that is without peer in the rice world. Slightly off white, firm yet creamy, this low glycemic rice has attributes that make it perfect for sushi or general consumption, if one is so inclined. Along the same vein as Kobe or Wagyu beef, Koshihikari rice is a type carefully cultivated and milled in Japan, and was traditionally only grown and consumed there, and for a long time, Westerners were not privy to this Japanese luxury. Eventually, word of this incredible rice spread, and while Japan was happy to export milled Koshi rice to the rest of the world, grain that would germinate was kept from export, effectively prohibiting other countries from growing their own Koshihikari rice. In 2003, Japan began to certify Japanese Koshihikari rice with DNA testing, thus ensuring a compliant product marketed with JAS certification. The intent was to keep this rice a Japanese product; however we all know how well that strategy works with any commodity.

In time, this rice still managed to find its way to different parts of the world, and it is now grown in the United States. California and Tennessee are two states that have found success in cultivating Koshi rice, and even though it may not be grown in Japan, the American variety of rice manages to retain many of its qualities that make koshi rice such a unique product. Being grown locally, it is less expensive and more readily available than the Japanese variety.

In Japan, home cooked rice is consumed generally within a few months of processing. Most ‘new crop’ rice is used as is, but depending on the household and perhaps the intended dishes it is not be unusual to blend shinmai (new crop) with komai (old crop). Shinmai tends to be stickier because the rain grains still retain some moisture. This is ideal for serving rice alone. Komai tends to be less sticky because the rice has lost more moisture, and is ideal for dishes like Cha Han (Fried Rice) or Kare Raisu (curry rice) where a person might want each grain to not stick to its neighbor. Additionally, nearly all Sushi restaurants in Japan use komai or some kind of komai blend because as the rice grain dries and loses moisture it develops small hairline cracks on the surface. These cracks permit the Su (vinegar) to be absorbed better. Outside Japan, sushi-ya do not pay as much attention to the blending of rice, but in a country where sushi is relatively new, this has not been of much concern.

Koshi rice is to sushi rice as single malt scotch is to the scotch world. While many consumers may not be aware of, or even concerned with the difference, to those who place more emphasis on the nuances of their food, Koshi rice is a different game. While I personally use Japanese Koshi rice when making sushi at home and trying to impress my friends with my sushi making skills, I have recently had the opportunity to try Koshi rice made by a Tennessee grower, which I will review in another article. While I am a huge fan of the Japanese short grain variety of rice, I don’t intend to sound like a rice snob, and I am happy to eat a bowl of non-Koshi rice that I am served at a sushi-ya. That said, when I am home, crafting my own meal and taking the time to perfect it, I like to have the ultimate rice to make my meal complete.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku