Sushi Otaku

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I just wanted to pass along a little information I received recently. Apparently six people became ill with Vibrio parahaemolytics from raw oyster consumption in the source state, Washington. The raw oysters were distributed to 11 other states and five countries (Canada, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Singapore and Thailand). No other illnesses have been reported. Guidance for safe consumer consumption of fully cooked oysters is included.

FDA Expands Warning on Eating Raw Oysters
Media Inquiries: Michael Herndon, 301-827-6242
Consumer Inquiries: 888-INFO-FDA

Additional Growing Area Linked to Illness Outbreaks

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration is warning consumers not to eat raw oysters harvested from an additional part (growing area 5) of the southern tip of Hood Canal in Washington state due to a foodborne illness outbreak caused by Vibrio parahaemolyticus bacteria. This follows an earlier outbreak and August 10 warning about oysters harvested from growing area 6 of Hood Canal.

Symptoms of the illness, vibriosis, include watery diarrhea, often with abdominal cramping, nausea, vomiting, fever, and chills. Usually these symptoms occur within 24 hours of ingestion and last no more than three days. Severe disease is rare and occurs most commonly in people with weakened immune systems. Those who believe they have experienced these symptoms after consuming raw oysters should consult their health care provider and contact their local health department.

Raw oysters harvested from growing area 5 in Hood Canal from July 31 through August 20, 2007 have caused at least six people to become ill in Washington state. To date, records indicate that raw oysters from the area were distributed to Arizona, California, Colorado, Delaware, Florida, Idaho, Minnesota, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Utah, Washington state, British Columbia (Canada), Bali (Indonesia), Hong Kong, Singapore, and Thailand.

The Washington State Department of Health has closed the growing area associated with the illness and has asked commercial oyster harvesters and dealers who obtained oysters from this area to recall them.

Consumers who have recently purchased oysters should check with the place of purchase and ask if they were harvested from the affected growing areas. The recall involves both shucked oysters and oyster in the shell (shell stock oysters).

Those with weakened immune systems, including people affected by HIV/AIDS, chronic alcohol abuse, liver, stomach, or blood disorders, cancer, diabetes, or kidney disease, should avoid eating raw oysters, regardless of where they are harvested.

FDA advises that consumers can continue to enjoy oysters in many cooked preparations by doing the following:

At Restaurants and other Foodservice Establishments:

· Order oysters fully cooked.

In the Shell:

· Purchase oysters with the shells closed

· Throw away any oysters with shells already opened.

· Never allow raw seafood to come into contact with cooked food.

· Boil or steam the oysters:

· Boil oysters until the shells open. Once shells open, boil for an additional three to five minutes.

· To steam—add oysters to water that is already steaming and cook live oysters until the shells open, once open steam for another four to nine minutes.

· Use smaller pots to boil or steam oysters. Using larger pots, or cooking too many oysters at one time,

· Discard any oysters that do not open during cooking.

Shucked Oysters:

· Never allow raw seafood to come into contact with cooked food.

· Cook the oysters in one of the following ways:

· Boil or simmer shucked oysters for at least three minutes or until the edges curl.

· Fry at 375° F for at least three minutes.

· Broil three inches from heat for three minutes.

· Bake at 450° F for 10 minutes.

For more information:
Hood canal oyster area closed — second closure due to illness outbreak – a news release from the Washington State Department of Health
http://www.doh.wa.gov/Publicat/2007_news/07-143.htm

FDA’s discussion on V. parahaemolyticus is in the “Bad Bug Book.”

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~mow/chap9.html

A description about V. parahaemolytics from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC)

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/vibrioparahaemolyticus_g.htm

CDC/MMWR gives a list of Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Reports at CDC relating to V. parahaemolyticus.. The date shown is the date the item was posted on the Web, not the date of the MMWR. The summary statement shown are the initial words of the overall document. The specific article of interest may be just one article or item within the overall report.

http://www.cdc.gov/search.do?action=search&direction=desc&queryText=vibrio+cholerae&sort=date&subset=mmwr

NIH/PubMed (a service of the US National Library of Medicine and National Institutes of Health) provides a list of research abstracts contained in the National Library of Medicine’s MEDLINE database for V. parahaemolyticus..

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?db=pubmed&dispmax=50&term=O139%5BWORD%5D%20AND%20Food%20Microbiology%5BMeSH%5D

AGRICOLA will provide a list of research abstracts contained in the National Agricultural Library database on V. parahaemolyticus.

http://agricola.nal.usda.gov/cgi-bin/Pwebrecon.cgi?DB=local&CNT=25&Search_Arg=Vibrio+cholerae+non-o1&Search_Code=GKEY&STARTDB=AGRIDB

The Seafood HACCP Alliance Compendium and the FDA’s Hazards Guide provide information on how to develop HACCP plans to control for this biological hazard.

http://seafood.ucdavis.edu/haccp/compendium/chapt20.htm – HACCP Alliance Compendium

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~comm/haccp4d.html – FDA’s Hazards Guide (note the FDA is expecting to release a new version possibly by the end of this year)

US FDA Food Code recommendations for cooking fish (includes molluscan shellfish as defined by the FDA seafood HACCP regulation 21 CFR 123 part 123.3(d) http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~lrd/searule3.html ) is 145F/63C for 15 sec.; 155F/68C for 15 sec for comminuted fish; and 165F/74C or above for 15 sec for stuffed fish.

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~acrobat/fc05-3.pdf – see 3-401.11 Raw Animal Foods (starts on p. 72)

A list of resources on V. parahaemolyticus are listed at the bottom of this announcement.

I’ve heard people refer to sushi as “cat food” before and make fun of it in many other ways, but what many folks don’t know is that Bluefin Tuna, now suffering from incredible demand, was, until the 1970′s, a ‘sport’ fish sold to companies for cat food or thrown away. Its fatty belly meat, known as ‘toro’ is now one of the more expensive items on the menu. I guess it’s all how you want to look at it.

All foods evolve as demand and supply issues tug at the markets and sushi is no exception. There was a time in the past when oysters populated our coasts like moss, and they were considered as food only for the poor. Even lobsters suffered the same opinion, and in fact were even ground up and used to fertilize soil in the early days of the European colonization of the Americas. It wasn’t until the turn of the century (well, the last century, the early 1900′s) that it started to be a “status” dish. Salmon is now a new ‘health food’ due to the high concentration of Omega-3 fatty acids, but even in my lifetime was once dirt-cheap and not that popular. I remember being very young and eating it probably twice a week since my mother was a particular fan of the flavor (and I became a devotee myself).

Our perception of food changes over time, and foods that would otherwise be ignored are constantly being incorporated into our diets as existing stocks dwindle and new opportunities are exploited. And some foods that were simply not common in some geographical regions (e.g the U.S.) become popular after a period of exposure, like sushi. The Monkfish was a rare fish in our diet until the mid 1970′s, but now ankimo (monkfish liver) is an expensive delicacy around the world (in fact, wholesale prices for the livers have increased over 2,000% since 1982, and you can imagine what that does to retail prices over that same time). I could go on forever and talk about any type of sushi I want, but the point of this piece is that the folks who don’t understand what we sushi otaku appreciate simply don’t put our culinary world into perspective. So sure, call my sushi “cat food.” Technically, you may not be that far from the mark. But it’s the best darn cat food I’ve ever eaten!

Warren
The Sushi Guy

I’ve always been a fan of sake. In fact, I prefer it to wine, which as a westerner obviously has to do with a taste acquired from my frequent sushi dining. When I order sushi I order sake. Some traditionalists say that one should not drink sake while eating sushi, “rice and rice,” but I never understood the logic behind that. Good sake is a great companion to the subtle flavours of sushi. Dry sake does not interrupt the taste of your meal; it provides balance and a palate cleansing to help differentiate each piece. And for those of you who prefer a sweet sake, that works too as the seasoned rice has a slight sweetness to it. Of course my number one rule is that if you like it, do it. While I can certainly appreciate a good wine/sake, I’ve never been a snob about it.

Many people, east and west, drink beer with their sushi. Often, Japanese beers (lagers) that tend to have a lighter body and flavor (in comparison to some of the western craft ales that can be darker and heavier). This makes sense as a heavy beer can easily cause you to lose sight of your meal and it’s subtlety. Some beers are meals in and of themselves. The Japanese beers lean more towards the sake spectrum as alcoholic beverages go, and often do accompany a good hunk maguro. But they still seem like too much for something as subtle as ika (squid) and other, lighter fare.

Sake is an interesting beverage. I won’t go into a detailed history since it’s an easy search, but the different styles that have evolved are a great insight into the complexity of the drink. Hot or cold. “Pearl” or clear (pearl is a white, cloudy sake with the some of the fermented rice solids, or”lees” remaining in the drink). There are many ways to enjoy sake.

Historically, sake was served warm. This would actually help mask some of the off flavors produced during production and the storage techniques that contributed a “woody” flavor. Sake was not, historically, a complex or sophisticated drink, but it certainly was robust. That’s not a criticism, just a result of the way it was produced. Over time, techniques became more sophisticated, the chemical reactions better understood, rice tailored to sake production was created and overall, a better beverage evolved. Today, generally the cheaper sakes are still served warm, but better ones are served chilled. And better they are. Today’s sakes are as complex and sophisticated as any wine (and have as many way to describe their taste, body, etc.). And that is why they can be easily paired with any food, and especially sushi.

I drink green tea after my meal. But I always have a glass (or two) of sake with my sushi. Sake can stand up to the western style spicy scallop roll or the traditional hamachi sashimi . It’s also great on its own. I always keep a bottle of my favorite in the fridge. Those of you who may have tried it but may have been turned off by a warm glass should really try a cold glass of the good stuff. And drink one for me.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

N.B. I’m going on holiday for a bit so I won’t be able to post for about 2 weeks or so. But hopefully I’ll find some sushi to talk about when I get back. Let’s just hope I’ll have something positive to say.

I feel somewhat oddly as I get more personal in this blog, however I guess that’s the point of a blog sometimes, eh? But one issue I thought I’d touch on is sushi and dating. I’ve been eating sushi for a long time. When I started to get interested in “The Real Date” (as opposed to the high school whatever happens, happens kind of date) it was obvious to me that a Japanese restaurant would be a place I would choose. I’m that kind of guy.

These days, it’s easier to go out to a sushi-ya on a date, however 15 years ago, they weren’t so numerous and sushi wasn’t as popular. Back then, I would make sure to go to a restaurant that had other options, such as teriyaki and other cooked, western friendly items. Sometimes it wasn’t hard to get my date to try the squid (ika) or the uni (sea urchin), but more often it was a no-go and I never pressed the issue. It was often great for conversation, though, as I munched away on my bowl of shrimp heads or monkfish liver (mmmmm, ankimo).

As time passed, I got older and palates became more sophisticated. More people knew of and ate sushi and it was not as uncommon to drag someone to a basement sushi-ya that you couldnâ’t even see from the street and have the best sushi you’ve had in a while (and I love New York City for that). I was always good with etiquette questions and identifying the unusual items, and the conversation changed from the “what the heck are you eating” kind of chat to “hey, that looks interesting, what is it?” type of conversation. Dates weren’t about impressing someone any more (well, not as much) and evolved into appreciating the food we ordered, and each other.

One technique, however, that was sure to impress (or so I thought) was to pop what was left of the wad of wasabi (I always order the real stuff when available) into my mouth at the end of the meal and chew away. With bright red face I would check the gag reflex and pretend that all was well. Did the chicks dig it? Well, they sure thought I was crazy, and in your twenties that’s not a bad thing (as long as you not a total wing nut). My wife makes fun of me to this day for showing off in that way with her. The combination of date and sushi became easier and more interesting as sushi caught on, while my adventurousness no longer had the impact it once had. But, it wasn’t a bad thing. The date should be about the date and not wondering why some guy is popping shrimp eyes between his incisors.

I no longer date, for obvious reasons, and my wife is a great sushi partner. We do still go out on “dates” to our favorite sushi-ya when we can get someone to watch the kids. It no longer impresses her when I eat my wasabi (it became a habit from overuse), but I can still whip out an offhand sushi fact that she hasn’t heard yet, which is nice. The food is good and the conversation better. I just wish the itamae would stop skimping on the wasabi.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

Faithful reader, Hayato, has asked me where to order sea urchins, so I thought I’d post that information for all to see. While the company I got mine from isn’t around anymore (online at least) I have found another place for them. Since you are on the west coast anyway, Hayato, Catalina Offshore Products has sea urchins here and while I have never ordered from them, I’ve heard good things about them and they are on my list for my next sushi party. You can order both Uni and live urchins. Good luck and let me know how it turns out!

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

All sushi in the US is flash frozen at some point in transit before it gets to your table, which I believe is a legal requirement. This is done to kill any dangerous parasites (such as Anisakis simplex) in the fish and protect consumers. I understand the policy, and won’t argue the safety point, but I will argue that it does something to the food that we consumers end up paying for. Well, not all of us, mind you, but there is an element out there that really savors the fish (like those audiophiles who claim to hear all sorts of things in music that the rest of us have no clue about) and there is no question in my mind that the quality is impaired by this process.

I can speak from experience. Years ago I was on a fishing boat with my cousin and, to make a long story short, he caught a large bluefin tuna. When we returned to shore that day the crew had already arranged for a group of Japanese men to meet us at the dock and offer a large sum of money to my cousin for the fish, which he took. What we also took was a large hunk of the fish that we ate then and there on the dock. This was not a chilled, previously frozen, perfectly cut and presented piece of neta, this was a hunk of maguro that was alive only a few hours ago. And it was great. The flesh was resilient and smooth, with slightly more texture than I was used to with standard maguro. I can’t say that it was night and day, because the differences were subtle, but to me, this was clearly not the maguro that was my usual fare. It made me wonder what else I should try right from the boat (although the only other fish I have tried raw and fresh was one I cannot remember the name, but I had the opportunity to catch on my sister’s research vessel in the Caribbean as she is a marine biologist).

Fresh sushi is something that anyone should try if they have the opportunity. I guess the risks of parasites are higher if you don’t treat the fish, but if you are willing to take that risk (and I sure am, and I eat oysters, clams and other critters raw all the time too) then do it. It’s like the Kobe beef vs. standard beef issue, if you can appreciate the difference then you deserve it, but if you are like my father, it’s probably just another piece of steak. I personally prefer the Kobe.

Happy New Year!
Warren
The Sushi guy.

Small Business – Green-Eyed Monster

This is an article I just came across in Fortune about wasabi (how timely). I really love that people in North America are getting to know this great plant, but for the life of me I can’t understand how someone who supposedly loves this product would then go ahead and turn it into a powder. The volatiles that make wasabi what it is are destroyed when the plant is turned to powder, so what you end up getting is something ‘sort of like’ wasabi. I guess it’s better than horseradish, but still, I would always buy from the folks who sell the unpowdered form in NorthAm over this guy. Just my opinion…

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

I’ll eat sushi any way and chance I get. I end up eating a lot of take out simply because it’s easy and with two young children, it’s not always fun when the edamame starts getting tossed around. But I really like the experience of being in the restaurant, drinking my sake, listening to the hum of the other diners. It’s fun watching what other people eat and watching the expressions of the people next to you when you get the raw quail egg and slurp it down with gusto. Or start munching on the shrimp heads. These are not common occurrences in North America.

My favorite restaurant does a pretty brisk take-out business, I’ve asked them, and I get everything from my regulars to bowls of their salad dressing to keep me ‘fixed’ for a week. And while their sushi is always great, whether eaten here or there, there’s just something about the temperature of the food that seems really important to me. Sushi is not served room temperature. It’s usually slightly chilled (or warm if cooked like Unagi maki). And this makes a huge difference. By the time I get my take-out home, my food is room temperature and the avocado has often lost some of it’s texture and color. It’s just not the same. Even the same brand of sake just doesn’t taste the same at home. It sounds dumb, but it’s true.

While I always prefer take-out to no sushi at all, there’s something to be said for getting off my bum and heading over to the restaurant and hunkering down. The food is great, the dishes are cleaned for you and the tea is, well…. restaurant bancha is never great, but it’s all part of the experience. So when I can… I’ll be sticking around.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

Welcome to my sushi blog, and, yes, I am aware of the negative connotation of the word ‘otaku’ in Japanese, however being a gaijin I thought I’d throw caution to the wind and use the word anyway. Westerners seem to think they have adopted the word for themselves so at least I’m not the first to misuse it
(stands up) “Hi. My name is Warren and I am a sushi freak.” I love sushi. I obsess over sushi. The yielding crunchiness of Ika (squid). The fresh and fecund creaminess of Uni (sea urchin). The way tobiko (flying fish roe) hides between my teeth for hours after a meal.
I talk about it way too much and if I had my way, I’d have a personal chef preparing me a new type every day for lunch and dinner. I also run the Sushifaq.com website as a labour of love. I *do* have a life outside my obsession, but I can honestly say that sushi factors heavily into my life nonetheless. As yet another outlet, I figured I’d start this blog to clear my head, share my thoughts (and meals), and interact with other sushi lovers out there in the real/virtual world. With that… on with the show. Happy eating!

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

Идея за подаръкHow will you feel when there is no more bluefin tuna sushi? No maguro. No toro. While I tend to rant a bit when it comes to the issue of over harvesting bluefin tuna, I will try to take a step off my pedestal for this entry, but I would really like to hear what others have to say if the situation gets to the point where there is no more bluefin tuna commercially viable. It is a very real possibility in the not too distant future.

Many restaurants serve big eye tuna, yellowfin, or other species rather than bluefin tuna, even when a person may think they are ordering bluefin. While they don’t imply they are serving bluefin and to purposefully bait and switch, nevertheless, very often you are not being served bluefin when you order a tuna roll. This makes me wonder. If no one is particularly conscious of what they are eating, and they see plenty of “tuna,” it may not be on people’s minds that real maguro and toro may disappear. As long as you still receive what you are expecting based on historical precedence, nothing needs to change.

So perhaps it will make no difference when the bluefin tuna disappears from the oceans. Diners will keep ordering tuna, without knowing what species they are eating. No one will be the wiser. I don’t mean this in any pejorative way, either, while the loss of a species is a tragedy, for all intents and purposes, it may not affect the sushi world in any real way.

How do other sushi diners feel about this? I certainly eat tuna, and when I can, avoid bluefin. But There are still plenty of fish in the sea (and the aqua farms), so to speak. Is the loss of bluefin a concern for you? Will you miss real toro? Would you back a forced sustainability program to keep the real fish on the plate? Do tell.