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What is Fugu?
Fugu (foo-goo) is a dish made from the Puffer
fish (blowfish) or Porcupine fish that has achieved an almost mythological
status in western cuisine. It has become synonymous with risk taking, a
culinary Russian roulette, due to that, if incorrectly prepared, a diner
risks death from even a single bite due to a potent neurotoxin found in the
fish. While the meat itself is not innately poisonous, the organs contain
lethal amounts of a particular tetrodotoxin which may contaminate the meat
if the fish is not prepared by a chef skilled in the art of fugu
preparation. Death is not an uncommon result for those who accidentally
consume the toxin, to which there is no antidote.
Preparing Fugu
Fugu is a delicacy which only licensed chefs are allowed to prepare in
Japan. An approximately three year apprenticeship is required before a chef
is allowed to take the examination to ensure they have the proper skills to
prepare the dish safely. Approximately 70% of the applicants fail their
examination, which is quite complicated; however this ensures that only the
most skilled and knowledgeable of applicants become certified for the task.
The dish is somewhat expensive, with servings in the range of US$20 to US$50
and a full course meal costing up to US$200. Due to the specialty nature of
the dish, a chef is careful to prepare the fish gathering the most
meat possible, and a special knife called a fugu hiki is employed for the
task. The fish is usually served as sashimi, called fugu sashi, or
tessa, and is sliced thinly and placed so that the pattern of the plate is visible
through the fish. The organs are sometimes available as fugu no shirako,
however they are specially treated to remove the toxins and are not commonly
available.
Toxic Meal
The poisonous nature of the dish comes from marine microorganisms that
produce the neurotoxin, which travels up to food chain, eventually finding its way
into the puffer fish. While the fish is itself immune to the toxin, it
nevertheless concentrates the substance in its organs and skin, much to the
chagrin of would-be predators, or sushi enthusiasts. It is reported that the
small amount of toxin that finds its way into the meat of the fish slightly
numbs the lips and mouth during the meal, and some even claim a mild state
of euphoria results from eating the dish. An element of danger may also
heighten the experience, as even a minor mistake on the part of the chef may
easily kill a diner, and in Japan, a number of individuals die each year
from fugu poisoning due to incorrectly prepared fugu, usually by amateurs.
On a side note, it is now believed that this particular tetrodotoxin is used
in the Caribbean by Voodoo practitioners in the creation of their supposed
‘zombie powder,’ as just the right dose may induce a paralytic state
resembling death, which will last for hours or days.
Is Fugu Now a Safe Bet?
Fugu can be found in many places found as sushi and sashimi, while the fins
and skin are also served in a myriad of ways alongside the main dish. Due to
the demand, there is now a significant rise in farm-raised puffer fish,
which lacks any traces of the tetrodotoxin, and therefore any risk to the
consumer. As fugu is a relatively mild tasting dish, without the element of
risk, some question why a person would bother spending the tidy sum to order
the dish when there is a lot more on the menu that may be more flavorful.
That, however, is a choice for the individual.
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