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Sushi and MSG

Q: I recently had a waitress at a Chinese restaurant tell me that sushi is loaded with MSG? Tell me it's not true!!! (But only if it isn't true.) My daughter suffers from migraines that are triggered by MSG, and now she's sure she shouldn't eat sushi anymore. - Sally L.

True, classic sushi should have absolutely *no* MSG in it. It is made up of nothing but clean, fresh, fish, rice with seasonings (vinegar & either mirin (which is a sweet cooking sake) or sugar for that touch of sweetness, and seaweed (as a wrap for rolls). Other than what is visible, the only 'unseen' additives are the vinegar and mirin. It is always possible that some lower quality, so to speak, places may try to enhance flavor with MSG, but I have never encountered it, or even heard of it. The Chinese are particularly known for using MSG in dishes, and some Chinese food restaurants are now serving sushi as well and you might want to ask the waitress or sushi chef specifically if they do this if you suspect they might, but again, I have never heard of this happening. There are other dishes served at both Chinese and Japanese restaurants that *may* have MSG in them (particularly Chinese restaurants which add MSG to many of their cooked dishes) and you might want to ask about those, but the sushi and sashimi should be safe for your daughter from my experience. You should never be afraid to ask the wait staff, however, you are their customer and have a right to know anything about the food you buy from them. Try the tactic my brother uses, since he does not eat dairy, and tell them that she is allergic to MSG and needs to know if the dish she ordered contains it. They don't want a lawsuit and should certainly tell you.

Here's a great follow-up to this question from reader Alex Stewart. He writes:

Good quality sushi should not have any MSG added to it, but the question of whether it _contains_ MSG is a bit more fuzzy. This is because one of the traditional components in many recipes for sushizu (the sushi vinegar mixture) is konbu (kelp, often used for soup stocks and such in Japanese cooking). One of the main things that konbu contributes to any recipe, in addition to vitamins and flavor, is glutamic acid (which occurs naturally in many forms of seaweed).

Now, glutamic acid is really exactly the same chemical as the "glutamate" in monosodium glutamate (in fact, the first forms of MSG were created by Japanese researchers by extracting it from konbu). Since sushizu recipes also typically include some amount of salt (sodium) as well, the resulting mixture actually has sodium and glutamate ions floating around in it. It turns out that chemically, this is exactly the same result you get any time you add commercial MSG to anything containing water (i.e. food).

So in effect, many sushizu mixtures contain "natural MSG" as a result of this process. It should be noted, however, that this sort of "natural MSG" also shows up in a bunch of other foods which most people eat all the time, including tomatoes and asparagus, and you'd certainly find far more of it in a slice of tomato than probably an entire meal of sushi, so if you don't have problems with those sorts of foods, the konbu in sushi presumably shouldn't be an issue either. To further complicate the question, however, there are a large number of pre-made "sushi powder" mixes, which can be added directly to rice instead of making up actual sushizu, to give it the same flavor and consistency. Most if not all of these powders, being mass-produced as cheaply as possible, actually emulate the effect of konbu by just adding industrial MSG to the formula instead, and if you look at the ingredients list on a packet it will actually say "monosodium glutamate" in there. I don't actually know how common it is for restaurants to use these powders (I've mostly seen them sold for home use), but I wouldn't be surprised if at least some of the lower-quality establishments buy and use something like that for cost and efficiency reasons.

All this having been said, it is important to point out that even though some sushi may have forms of MSG in it, that's not necessarily the same thing as being "loaded with it". One also needs to take a look at exactly how much of it there is in any given piece of sushi. The sushizu mixture in sushi is actually a fairly small portion of the total (generally about half to 1 tablespoon per cup of cooked rice), and of that, the "MSG-like" components are a fairly small portion of the sushizu mixture as well (maybe (at most) half a teaspoon per cup of sushizu, and that's being generous). What this comes out to is somewhere on the order of 1/32 of a teaspoon (or less) per cup of sushi rice, or around 1/150 or 1/200 of a teaspoon per piece of sushi. 1/150 of a teaspoon! (And that's the generous estimate. Odds are it's a lot smaller for most sushi.)

So to sum up, traditionally-made sushi may have naturally-occurring sodium and glutamates in it, which is equivalent to MSG, but probably isn't a problem for most people with MSG allergies. Lower-quality sushi may also be made with sushi powders which almost always have MSG added to them, but in all sushi, the amount of "MSG-like" stuff is actually a very very small part of the whole recipe anyway. My general recommendation is if you're still concerned about such things, stick with higher-quality sushi establishments, ask them whether they use MSG or konbu in their sushi mixtures, and try it carefully and see whether you have a problem with it before deciding whether to continue eating at a given establishment. But to be honest, I really wouldn't worry about it too much.

Thanks Alex!


 

                                                                          


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